Apart from the screeching critter last night, we had a nice nights sleep in the Polish forest. We were up fairly early to beat the heat. First stop, the Biebrza national park. We drove around all over the place trying to find the office, but eventually got there.

We did a couple of walks there, but they were pretty boring through forests. We were hoping to see a moose or a wolf, but saw nothing, not even a bird. But, we figured we were getting exercise, so it wasn’t a total waste. While we were out walking , I got a text message on my phone saying they would be implementing border control into Poland from Lithuania and Germany from today. No idea why, but glad we came in yesterday.

There was also a short walk along a boardwalk out over the wetlands, and there was a camera crew out there photographing stuff, but we didn’t see anything. Like I’ve said before, we’re useless tourists.

We stopped at a neat little town called Tykocin. On the way in, we checked out the castle from the outside,  a red brick structure with a round tower, perched beside the river. It had a restaurant inside, but the museum was closed.

Then we headed into the town itself, which had a charming main square. A baroque church stood at one end, its pale yellow and white facade and twin towers giving the place an olde worldy vibe. I wanted to look inside but Mike said I couldn’t because I had a sleeveless top on. Not sure when he became an expert on such things. I peeked inside anyway, and it was very fancy, but similar to other churches we’d seen.

Around the square, a few food trucks and souvenir stalls were set up, clearly geared for visitors. It seemed like we were redeeming ourselves by stumbling on a tourist town. Except there were no tourists here, just us!

There was a street bar with bored-looking staff, but it smelled amazing. We checked out the menu, had no idea what anything was, and just went with the first item: Kartacze. When it arrived, it looked… interesting. A white mound topped with bacon and a gherkin on the side. I sliced into it and found meat inside.

Turned out it was meat wrapped in a potato dumpling, and it was absolutely delicious. The gherkin, marinated in salt, was also really tasty. It was the first food stall we’ve actually come across on this trip. We’ve been pretty hopeless at finding local cuisine, so it was nice for a change.

We then walked along a cobblestoned path that followed the river. It was picturesque, with old buildings, trees, and some benches along the way. There were information placards scattered along the path, though the content was a bit depressing. They described how the Jewish community was rounded up during WWII and taken away. We also passed the synagogue, but it was closed for the day.

By the time we’d finished sightseeing, the other tourists were arriving. Maybe we just time things right.

The rest of the day was spent driving, and trying to keep off the busy main roads. Drivers here are insane. They drive soo fast, and overtake dangerously and I don’t feel very safe on the roads here. The side roads seem better and take us through farmland and little villages, and occasional rutted dirt roads. We got onto a very badly corrugated road today and had to turn around and backtrack, it was that bad!

We eventually found the camping spot I was heading for. It’s a free spot by a river and there were already four other campervans there, so we found a spot in the shade and joined them. We were both so shattered, possibly from the heat, that we just collapsed for an afternoon nap. And it would have been very peaceful if it wasn’t for our neighbours yapping dogs. They were mongrels and didn’t like anyone. I tried to be friendly to them, but they preferred to yap at me than make friends. But we were too tired to care.

It’s actually a really nice spot. There’s a sandy beach and a river you can swim in. We were so hot, we jumped right in. A safety rope was strung across to stop you going too far, and the water only came up to our waists, but it was still great to cool off, even if the water was pretty brown.

I think tomorrow we are heading to the city of Lublin that Kasia recommended. Hope it’s not too busy.

Well, Poland was a bit of a shock to the system, but more about that shortly.

We had a peaceful start to Sunday morning in Lithuania. It was very quiet in our camp spot, and we spent the morning drinking coffee and working on videos. But the peace didn’t last long.

We went for a walk around the lake and this is where things got a bit noisy. In the space of 15 minutes we saw not one, but two snakes! The first one was a wee green thing that scurried off the path when I saw it. The second one was much bigger and I almost tread on it! Both times I screamed really loudly, shattering the peace.

And then it was time for the inevitable. Leaving Lithuania. We have both loved it here so much, it is a shame to leave. It’s been such a peaceful country, and very little tourists, and people in general. Even the cities were relaxing. But we only have 90 days in Europe and the days are ticking over quickly. So off we went, and drove in Poland.

Immediately things were different.  The calm of Lithuania vanished the moment we crossed the border.

Suddenly, the road was buzzing with traffic, lakes were crammed with swimmers and sunbathers, and small towns were packed with people and market stalls. It felt like we’d landed on another planet.

As well as that, it was hot! Without air-conditioning and the sun streaming in the front window, we were sweltering! We turned off the main road, suddenly desperate for shade. After weeks of steering clear of forests, now the heat had us seeking refuge beneath their trees. Ironic how quickly things can change.

I didn’t hold out much hope of finding somewhere that wasn’t crowded, but we found a  place in the forest beside a lake. There were a few locals here, but not heaving, so we pulled up under the trees, opened the doors, turned on the fan, and collapsed. It was far too hot to keep driving, so we decided to stay the night.

Just as I was drifting into sleep, a strange squeaking noise cut through the silence outside. Half-asleep, I dismissed it as some unfamiliar creature rustling in the forest. But then it came again. Closer. Right next to the van.

It turned into a long, grating screech that sliced through the night. I bolted upright and peered out the window. Nothing. Just blackness. Whatever it was, I must’ve startled it. Still, I slammed the roof vent shut, just in case it tried to join us in bed. 

The plan for tomorrow is to get up early and do things before it gets too hot.

Today we were up bright and early, ready to go explore Kaunas, Lithuania’s second largest city. The reason for getting up early? To avoid the traffic and the crowds, though it was a Saturday.

We arrived in the city just after 8am, and parked in the castle car park. There was a farmers market so we browsed around, but didn’t see anything we fancied. 12 euros for strawberries??? I don’t think so!

After that we wandered around the old town in search of coffee and breakfast. We found a quirky cafe, and ordered two servings of bacon, two eggs, and espressos. It came to only 12 euros, which seemed much better value than the strawberries. The bacon and eggs came sizzling in a skillet, and some ciabatta bread on the side. It was really delicious, and I suspect it was cooked in butter.

The church here is on the pilgrim trail, and while it looked ordinary on the outside, inside I was blown away. I’m hopeless at description, so lets just say it was fancy.

After going to church it was 10am, and the tour groups were creeping out of the woodwork, so that was our cue to leave. We drove on to the Meteliai lakes which a local had suggested to us. We found a nice spot overlooking the lake, had some lunch, then fell asleep. I know, I’m always mentioning us sleeping in the daytime in our blogs, and you probably think that’s what we do all day. But it’s an integral part of the journey!

After our daytime sleep, it was time to look for somewhere for night-time sleep. We drove into a freshly cut paddock, looking for a spot. But as soon as we stopped, we were swamped with flies, so we aborted quickly. We checked out a rest stop overlooking a lake, but it didn’t have the vibe. So we continued on until we found another spot, also overlooking a lake, but with a better vibe. It was very quiet for a Saturday night (no local hoons).

Tomorrow, we go to Poland!

I don’t know where the day goes, but it just seems to disappear. We left our spot early-ish this morning. I can’t be sure of the exact time but I think it was before 10am. We drove for a couple of hours and stopped at a watchtower which overlooked Russia. It was lunchtime so we had a sandwich.

It was such a calm feeling, sitting there overlooking Russia, that it felt kinda ironic. No cars, no people, no bombs dropping, just the occasional chirp of birds breaking the silence. There was something oddly peaceful about it.

I saw there was a castle on the route, so I figured we’d stop and have a look.  Panemunė Castle was built in the early 1600s, and was once a residence for nobility, complete with secret tunnels and a dungeon. It was pretty cool to look through. At the entrance were mannequins dressed in period costumes, and original art work on the walls. There was also a kitchen, complete with pizza oven, and a ballroom, where we had a little dance.

I climbed the staircase of the tower, while Mike stayed below, as he didn’t trust himself to walk up in jandals. From the tower’s height, it was easy to imagine lookouts once stationed here, watching for incoming threats or simply surveying the estate below.

Then it was time to find somewhere to camp for the night. We found a nice spot down, you guessed it, a rutted dirt road, and overlooking a river. It was the perfect spot. I’m always a little concerned camping somewhere on a Friday night. Not for safety, but if you are near a town, the local youths tend to hang out in spots like this. But it was nice and peaceful until 9pm when a car pulled up. “I knew it was too perfect,” I said to Mike. A car load of people got out and headed down to the river. I have no idea what they were doing down there, but they were quiet, and left after about an hour.

So a nice, quiet nights sleep.

It was such a beautiful day today, that we decided to stay put at the Lagoon. It was forecast to be 33 degrees and the thought of driving in that with no air-conditioning didn’t appeal. At least here, we could sit with the doors open, enjoy the breeze, and take a dip if it got too hot. And that’s exactly what we did!

I had my first northern hemisphere swim, and it was really refreshing. It had a nice sandy floor and even though it was only waist high, I managed to have a nice bath. The water was cool, but not cold once you were in. It was just perfect! 

Afterwards, a whole lot of windsurfers turned up, looked like a school group. They seemed to spend hours getting their windsurfers wet up. I wouldn’t have the patience for that. But it gave us something to sit and watch. It was really windy and they were out for most of the day, zipping across the water. Apparently we are camped at a famous windsurfing spot.

The last of the windsurfers finally left around 10.30pm when the sun set, and we had the place to ourselves.

What a gloriously warm and sunny day in Lithuania.

We started the day with a visit to the Cold War museum and this place was beyond cool. It’s the site of old Soviet bunkers, and we got to walk around one.   It was really freaky, being in a compound that would have been top secret in it’s day. It was like stepping straight into a time capsule that buzzed with paranoia and secrecy. The layout was a maze of narrow corridors and low ceilings, designed to confuse anyone who didn’t belong. It was seriously claustrophobic, and as much as I hated it, I loved it!

There were mannequins posed as if mid-task, on the front desk, hunched over radios, another even had a gas mask on, and they looked disturbingly lifelike in the dim lighting. English translations and Cold War-era sound effects echoed around us, adding to the eerie atmosphere.

I imagined the people who once worked down there, sealed off from the outside world, probably living under constant pressure and surveillance. What a suffocating existence that must have been. I may even have I seen a photo of Mum and Dad’s old neighbour there! But he told us he was a Mig engineer, so maybe not.

After that, we headed to the Curonian Spit, a 100km-long stretch of sand shared between Lithuania and Russia. (Who knew Russia had a random sliver wedged between Lithuania and Poland? I certainly didn’t.)

Anyway, the spit turned out to be a bit of a tourist trap. First, we paid 25 euros for a ferry ride that lasted all of five minutes. Then, once we landed, there was another fee to enter the national park. I saw a sign that said 25 euros and thought, “Okay, fair enough.” But turns out, that was the car price. For a campervan, it was actually 50 euros. Fifty! At that point, we decided we could see sand dunes at home for free and turned around! We weren’t paying that!

All wasn’t lost though, as there was a beach, and it was free. And it just happened to be a nudist beach. How we keep ending up at these places is beyond me? Anyway, Mike got to have a bit of naked time and half a swim. Too cold he reckoned to go all the way in. But the air temperature was about 27 degrees, and I was tempted.

By the time we got off the spit, it was time to find somewhere to camp. As per usual, we drove through forests and bounced along rutted dirt roads. In the end we found a gorgeous spot overlooking the lagoon, the spit in the distance, and Russia to our left. We sat outside for the first time in ages, listening to the frogs as they croaked constantly and even put on a little show. It was the perfect place to sit, relax and watch the sun set.

Today we woke up at 4.30am! It’s sunrise and I heard a few cars coming in to go fishing. So we got up and drove to the other side of Lithuania.

We stopped off and looked at the Hill of Crosses. The first crosses were placed after an 1831 uprising against Russian rule, but it was during the Soviet occupation that the hill became something more. Religion was banned, the site was bulldozed multiple times, and yet people kept returning, often at night, to plant more crosses. It became a quiet act of resistance. No speeches, no protests, just symbols of faith rising again and again from the earth. But today it has over 100,000 crosses, statues and rosaries place by pilgrims around the world. It continues to grow and reminded me of the signpost forest on the Alaska highway, but with a much more sinister past.

After that we drove to a national park that has the deepest and cleanest lake in Lithuania. We found a fantastic spot right beside a lake. We pulled in on the grass next to a fire pit and had a nap. Then we got the knock. Okay, it was a daytime knock, but the ranger was telling us we couldn’t park there and that we had to be 25 metres from the water. Typical, I thought. The most perfect spot. But then he pointed to a spot a couple metres away on the gravel, and said we could park there. So problem solved and still a beautiful view.

Summer has finally arrived. The weather is stunning, although not warm enough to swim, but it seems like I will probably be moaning about the heat later in the week when it hits 30 degrees.

Tomorrow we’re going to explore the Cold War museum with involves actual underground bunkers from the cold war.

Today we visited Vilnius, the capital of Lithuania. We don’t usually do cities, but we were passing nearby and I’d heard good things. We came in the back way, avoiding the main roads, and found parking for just 1 euro an hour which is not bad for a capital city.

Our first stop was the castle, which involved a steep hike up but was totally worth it for the sweeping 360-degree views over the city. Vilnius is more spread out than I expected, with lots of green patches and red roofs. It didn’t feel overly built up or hectic, just a bit offbeat in a good way.

On our way to the old town, a quirky little vegan cafe caught my eye. I ordered a cake that I have no idea what was in it, but it was rich, gooey, and absolutely delicious.

We wandered into the old town next, which felt refreshingly low-key compared to other European cities. Fewer tourists, more quirks. 

One of the coolest things we came across was this high-tech portal in the square. It’s a real-time video link to other cities around the world. We stood there waving to strangers in Ireland and France, who waved back. It was neat.

After that, we just wandered, soaking in the quiet charm of the buildings and backstreets.

Leaving Vilnius was a different experience from arriving. It was rush hour and so much traffic and I think if we had come in this way, we would have aborted!

We spent the rest of the afternoon getting out of Vilnius and looking for a camping spot. We drove down some rutted dirt roads looking at places in the forest, but wasn’t feeling the vibe. So we ended up in a beautiful spot overlooking a lake.

Today it was miserable and wet and we felt no motivation to move, so we stayed put. I finally got my Lofoten video finished which I’d been putting off, and we didn’t do much else. There is apparently a heat wave hitting Europe but it hasn’t reached us yet. But I’m sure it’s coming!

Highlights from the day:

Video finished.

We had 3 coffees instead of two.

We ate salad for lunch and dinner (maybe my diet has finally started!)

I beat Mike five times in a row at chess!

We’ll get off our fat arses tomorrow and do something.

Today started slowly, the morning was spent catching up on editing and organising stuff, so we didn’t leave our campsite until lunchtime. Sometimes the quiet, routine days feel just as important as the adventurous ones.

We took a detour to a palace in a town that had an unsettling vibe. The palace belonged to a count from the 1800s, and it was a little creepy. While it was interesting to see, I’m not sure it was worth the detour. Still, there’s something about places like that that make you wonder about the stories hidden beneath the surface.

Crossing into Lithuania brought an immediate change in the landscape. The farmland faded away, replaced by thick pine forests and calm lakes. Had we just transported back to Finland?

We spent hours looking for somewhere to camp that wasn’t in a mozzie infested forest, and finally at 8pm, we found a spot overlooking a lake. We don’t usually like camping near towns on a Saturday night due to local hoons, but a few other campervans are here, so it feels safe enough. There’s something comforting about ending the day beside water, even on the most average of days.

It got noisy for a while. A few loud motorbikes rolled up, then the pumping music from a bar up the road. But it all quietened down about 11pm and it was a peaceful nights rest.