This morning it rained, so we packed up and left our perfect spot. We had to backtrack to Takaka, but we stopped off at a little hippie town of Collingwood and had a look around and through the museum. Then we stopped at Takaka and got rid of all our waste and filled up with fuel.

As it was raining we decided on a driving day. It was a gorgeous drive along the backroads of the Buller river and into Murchison.

We stopped at the Murchison NZMCA park and it’s right in town, and only $5pp. It had been cold all day but when we stopped the sun was out and it was overbearingly hot and humid. Then it rained again and cooled it down.

We mooched around the town, checking out the second hand stores. Then a few sandflies came out and we retreated inside the van where I managed to get my video finished. My back is feeling a lot better now, bit still not 100%.

We left out camp early today as we had a bit of exploring to do. We drove up the stunning Takaka hill. I thought we hadn’t been here before, but we drove up here on our Apple maps driving job. We turned off at Takaka and followed the coast up to Totoranui. It was tarseal for some of the way then turned to a rutted gravel path. As I always say, the best things are at the end of the gravel road.

At the end was a stunning golden sandy beach. There was also a doc camp there, but it wasn’t overlooking the sea so we decided not to stay. So back to Takaka we went. Jenny and Barry were still there as Barry had to go to the doctors. He’d not been feeling well, so Mike gave him his blood pressure monitor to check it. It was very high. So he went to the chemist in Takaka who told him to go to the doctors. He’d already decided to double his dose and by the time he got to the doctor it had lowered to a safer level.

After that we headed up to farewell spit. They didn’t allow dogs, so we just pulled up, took a photo, decided it looked boring and smelled like rotting seaweed, and left. Some Aussies we met said we must to to Wharariki beach as it was beautiful. So we followed another gravel road. But when we got there the overflow carpark was overflowing, and in my experience, if there are that many people, it takes away from any beauty. And it’s just another beach. So we abandoned that walk as well.

But all was not bad. We found the perfect campspot at the back of a farmers farm, overlooking the ocean and the spit. It was another NZMCA Park over property and was free. And only a handful of motorhomes there. A perfect end to a not so perfect day

We did not want to leave our perfect spot at the French pass. The morning was gorgeous and I would have loved to have spent the day there swimming and chilling out. But I had a Physio appointment booked in Nelson.

The drive out of the French pass was even more stunning than the drive in. We explored a few more bays along the way and arrived in Nelson mid afternoon.

My physio was really nice. She worked on my back and loosened it up a lot and has given me some exercises to do. Still not sure if I’ll be doing the Routeburn but will know more in a week.

After that we got stuck in Nelson traffic and eventually got out the other side. Thankfully Jenny had found us a nice spot at a park overlooking property. It was only $5 per person, and even had a toilet and shower!

We also took a drive up to Kaiteriteri but freaked out at all the people there and got out immediately!

Wow, what a day. My back is still pretty sore, but I’m sure it’s better than yesterday. I made an appointment in Nelson for the physio for just in case.

We didn’t drive far today. We wanted to go to the French Pass, but Jenny and Barry didn’t so we dropped them off at a little place called Okiwi Bay where they were able to stay at a park over property for just $10 a night, right across the road from the bay. At that stage we didn’t know whether we’d be back that night or not.

Then we continued on up to French pass, ignoring all the scary signs. Narrow road, drop offs, gravel, 4WD recommended. We decided it was for tourist and didn’t apply to us. It was about 1.5 hours drive from Okiwi bay. It was a windy ole road on tarseal for most of the way, then it turned to gravel, and this is where it got interesting.

The road surface itself was fine, we’ve been on way worse. The views were incredible. Blue water, islands, little bays, and the feeling of remoteness that we love. We were both grinning from ear to ear as we drove, absolutely loving it. 

We knew there was a doc camp at the French pass but we didn’t know what to expect, or whether we’d even stay or not. But when we arrived, the doc camp was overlooking a perfect little bay. There was no doubt, we would be staying here. We parked up and that was that.

There were large stingrays patrolling up and down the beach. They were really cool to watch. I put my feet in the water and they swam right up to me. I think they’re used to people feeding them. And then we went for a swim. It was freezing but refreshing. There are cold showers here too, so it was nice to get clean, especially with my physio appointment tomorrow. I also got our laundry done.

The people camped next to us were really fun. A couple of women travelling in their motorhome were hilarious. The lady lives in her motorhome all year round and her cousin was visiting from Cairns. And then a guy on a motorbike turned up and camped on the other side of us. It was the perfect spot. 

If my back is screwed and I can’t do the routeburn, I think we will just come back up here.

Today didn’t go as planned. I woke up with terrible back pain. It started a couple of nights ago, and it was even worse today.  Mike had to help me put my socks on. We spent the morning at Aussie bay, lazing around then walked 1km to a pier to watch jenny and robyn fish. No luck.

My plan was to spend time looking around the sounds. I’d seen a nice campground at Kenepuru heads that sounded nice. But when we drove that way, there were big signs saying, dangerous road, slips, we don’t want you here, etc. Jenny and Barry decided to head to Havelock, but we wanted to see if we could get through. The road wasn’t bad, but we eventually came to a road closure. We could wait an hour and they would let us through, but we decided we couldn’t be bothered. So we turned back too and met Jenny and Barry in Havelock. We restocked there, and filled up with water.

Tonight we are staying in a POP (Park Over Property.) It’s free, and it’s at the back of an old gold mining pub and surrounded by hills and it’s really picturesque. We’ve got chickens behind us to make us feel at home.

For dinner we made zuchinni soup to share (I knew my blender would come in handy), homemade garlic bread, followed by smoked salmon and coleslaw.

We were all up at 5.30 am to drive to the ferry. We arrived about 6.30am and John was already there.

Our ferry was supposed to leave at 8.15 am and Susan’s was 8.45. But we were delayed by 30 mins so we left at the same time, so that was cool.

It was thankfully a super smooth crossing. We sat out on the deck which was lovely and sheltered and got chatting to another couple. They said they were from near Thames. I asked where. They said a small town called Waitakaruru. What were the odds! They said nobody had ever heard of it when they tell people so imagine their surprise when I said I grew up there!

We all regrouped in Picton and caught up with Susan and Gary. But they were heading down to timaru so it was just a quick catchup. And the rest of us went to Aussie bay in the queen charlotte sound.

It was a gorgeous spot overlooking the sound and we all got a spot together. John and Robyn went fishing and the rest of us went for a walk and heckled them from the hill. John caught a fish but it got away.

The rest of the day was spent chilling out enjoying the view.

We left Levin and headed for Mana freedom camp. As we drove in it was heaving with cars, tents and officials. There was a rugby tournament on. I didn’t fancy our chances. Not only did we have to find our own spot, we had to try and save a spot for Jenny and Barry who would be arriving a lot later.

We found a little spot which was long and narrow so we packed back and could pull forward when Jenny and Barry arrived.

We spent the afternoon just chilling out. We took a walk to look at our nicely painted house and it still looks good.

Jenny and Barry arrived about 7pm and we all had an early night. It was about then I got a terrible pain in my lower back.

Not such a picture postcard day today. The wind was whipping up white caps on the lake and it was a chilly morning. We had a leisurely start and headed off just before 11.

We were heading to Levin. It was only supposed to be a 4 hour journey but it turned into a 6 hour one. We hit road works around lake Taupo and just sat for ages. Pity Google didn’t tell us beforehand as we could have gone the other way.

The desert road made up for it though. We found a nice spot overlooking the mountain with a picnic table. Jenny cooked us up some fillet steak from one of Johns cows. So we ate steak sandwiches on the side of the road overlooking mount ruapehu. Delicious . Thanks Eve.

We didn’t arrive at Levin until 5pm and Barry’s mum had organised dinner at the Cobb and co for 6 for Jenny’s early birthday dinner. Barry’s brother and his wife also joined us.

We all ordered the senior meal which was 3 courses for $38.70. It was yummy! Tonight we are sleeping outside Barry’s mums place, and Jenny and Barry are inside in a proper bed.