Today, we crossed into Finland! It was just a short 30-minute drive from our campsite to the border, and not far after that, we’d marked out a hike in Lapland. It was meant to be an easy loop around a lake, something gentle and scenic. But on the drive there, I spotted a trail leading up a mountain. I looked at the slope and saw people up there and thought, no way! Then I glanced at the frozen lake beside us and thought, actually… the view from up there would be amazing.

So next minute, we’re making wraps for lunch, filling up our water bottles, and hiking up a mountain! Okay, the plan was never really to go all the way to the top. Just high enough to get the views.

 The track wound through mountain birch trees, with patches of snow scattered around. There was even snow on parts of the track that we had to crunch our way through.

Halfway up, we stumbled across a hexagonal shelter hut with a firepit in the center, cooking tools, an axe for chopping wood, and a shovel for the snow. It was incredibly cosy, the kind of place you’d want to hunker down in during a storm.

We kept climbing and, after about 30 minutes, broke above the tree line. The view was spectacular with the frozen lake below and mountains stretching into the distance. We decided that was far enough. The temperature was dropping, and we weren’t equipped for any sudden changes in weather.

After the hike, the landscape changed. As we drove further into Finland, the terrain flattened out and the lakes multiplied. I don’t want to say it was boring… but it was boring. What stood out, though, was the amount of rubbish. Many of the scenic rest stops were sprawled with litter, a stark contrast to pristine Norway.

We also encountered many reindeer behaving badly. They hang out on the side of the road, and decide to wander in front of you without warning. They are neat to see though, with their fancy little antlers. We also kept spotting animals that looked like antler-less reindeer. Elk, maybe? Very cute, whatever they were.

We followed the Swedish border for much of the day. Technically, we could’ve crossed over just to say we went to Sweden, but didn’t see the point. It’s just an invisible line.

Eager to reach the Arctic Ocean, we pushed on and re-entered Norway. There, we found a quiet lakeside camp all to ourselves. It was perfect: calm water, no wind, no bugs, just peace. We set up the chairs and soaked it in, thinking how lucky we are to be here.

For dinner we had garlic bread and soup, and I was still patting myself on the back for finding such a great spot when the peace was shattered by a roar that sounded like a dirtbike on steroids. I looked out the window and saw a jet ski tearing across the lake at breakneck speed. I’d never seen one move so fast! But then it drove up on the land. An amphibious jet ski? I’d never heard of such a thing.

Curious, we stepped outside and were immediately hit by the smell of high-octane fuel. A few vans and a gazebo were set up nearby. We wandered over, marvelling as this amphibious creature darted across the lake, breaking the sound barrier. 

As we got closer we saw that it was a race team and they were out practicing on the lake. The creature we’d been seeing wasn’t a jet-ski at all. It was actually a stock-standard snow-mobile! Apparently, it can skim across the surface of the water at high speed, but if it stops, it sinks. We stood there, amazed, watching it fly across the lake. It was wild, loud, and completely unexpected.

They’d only just arrived around 7 p.m., so we figured they’d be going for a while. Although it was very cool, it was a bit loud for us, so we packed up and moved on, driving another 40 minutes to a quieter lakeside spot. This one had picnic tables, a toilet, and a few campervans, but the atmosphere was much more peaceful.

An exciting end to an already adventurous day.