Najara to santo domingo de la calzada 21 kms

227 kms so far

Today was an easy walk. It’s the first day I’ve walked with almost no pain from my knee. The two days rest and two short days must have helped. Now my feet have decided to join the pain club.

Almost all the Americans we meet seem to complain about everything. Today they moaned about the hotel breakfast, the heat, the hills, the lack of wine tastings. Yep. They expect the wineries to be open to walkers for wine tasting, as if they’re gonna buy a case or two.

Other people probably moan too just we can’t understand them.

Anyway, now I’ve finally finished moaning about people moaning, there is nothing left to say. We walked. We ate lunch. We walked some more. We had a shower. We drank beer and ate dinner. The end.

Don’t forget Mike’s blog at www.wheresmike.co.uk . It’s surely way more interesting than mine.

Navarette to Najara – 17km

206 kms so far

Today was a much easier day. There was no ashplalt walking and this made all the difference. And the sun was shining again.

We booked our accommodation last night and are glad we did as the albergue is fully booked now. Weird, as last night we were the only ones. We must have been out of stride with the serious walkers.

Today, with not far to go, a walker from Hungary asked us how much further.

‘4km’ Mike replied.

‘Arrrgh.’ Hungarian guy replied. ‘I’ve walked 27kms already, Ive had enough’

Not sure why these people do it to themselves.

We’re in a neat little town beside the river. We hardly saw anyone on the wall today but there are loads of walkers here and all the hostels are booked out.

We had pasta for dinner and too much rioja. The end.

Hoping to Hear it through the grape vine

Logrono to Navarette – 16km

Today I took a tumble after leaving our hotel. Tripped over a cobblestone. Thankfully uninjured but have a sore neck, wrist, and elbow. Think I went all out to protect the knee.

It seemed to be a hard walk out of Logrono, lots of cars and noise and pavement. Once we got out of there it was much nicer.

We spotted a Chinese lady we stayed with a few nights ago. She is touring by bike, but her setup is horrible. She has a much bigger pack than us, and she’s wearing it on her back as she rides. She also has a blue pillow tied onto her saddle. And she spends most of her time walking her bike like Phoebe around central park.

We only did 16kms today but I was shattered by the time we got here. I think my late night tapas bar hopping have gotten to me.

Tonight we ate paella and drank rioja. That’s it. Oh. And we seem to be the only ones at our albergue tonight. Weird and kinda lonely.

Rest Day

Today we strolled around Logrono. My knee has become very sore again so pleased for a rest day.

I bought a new phone as I’d dropped mine one time too many. I also bought a lightweight pair of sandals as my jandals aren’t very comfortable for walking too far in.

We met up with an Australian lady we’ve been running into over the last few days. She’s a recovering alcoholic like me, although I’m more of a covering alcoholic at the moment. But hey, we’re in the Rioja region!

It rained this evening but we still managed another tapas and rioja night and are fully rested for another walking day tomorrow. hope the rain is gone by then.

Torres Del Rio to Logrono – 22 kms

Today we walked, and we walked, and we walked. It was another hot day and it was a hard walk into Logrono this afternoon.

We found the Tapas bar street and had an amazing selection of tapas/pintxos.

How it works is you go into one bar, order a mini drink and a small plate of something yummy. Then you move on to another place. So it’s kinda like pub crawling but with food.

We followed some locals as they seemed to know what they were doing, and we ordered what they were ordering. They thought it was funny that we were following them.

Some of the best food ever. One tapas bar only did mushrooms and they were amazing as their garlic buttery saltyness, dripped down our wrists as we ate them.

Then there was the pork cheek, oh so tasty.

We also had the best patatas bravas I’ve ever had, and some wagyu beef.

We are staying two nights in Logrono as it looks like a fun city to explore.

Oh, and our hotel has a bath, and a jacuzzi. Bliss.

Villamayor de monjardin – Torres del Rio – 21 kms

Today was a hard slog. It was 13 kms walk to the first town and there was no shade. The afternoon was the same. It was 34 degrees.

I think the heat and the wind has made me go mad as I made many friends today.

I met Olivia, whose hair was blowing in the wind. I told her she looked beautiful and she told me the answer and called me her friend.

Then I met Poppy. She was a stuck up cow who wouldn’t talk to me. I told her where to go.

Blackie was a cool dude, and Mike made friends with Daisy.

You know you’re going mad when you make friends with the shrubbery.

Other than talking to the Olive trees, poppies, blackberries and daisys, I sang songs. Turns out it’s a thing and I’m not the only one singing on the trail.

We are in a nice albergue tonight which is more like a hotel. It even has a swimming pool. I’m too tired to use it.

We ran into our Irish friend again. She is 62 and is walking camino for the first time and doing it on her own.

In the first few days from St Jean, she got swept away with the other pilgrims racing ahead and she started to struggle. Then she wondered why she was pushing herself to keep up and she slowed it down.

As a result, she’s doing it at our pace and we keep catching up.

Nice dinner tonight, possibly a slow start tommorrow. Hee hee.

Lorca to villamayor de monjardin – 19 kms

We’ve been walking for one week now and we’re loving it. I’d heard stories about overcrowding on the camino but so far we’ve found ourselves with the trail to ourselves alot of the time. Yesterday we hardly saw anybody.

Today we walked passed the wine fountain. Yep. That’s wine, from a fountain, and it’s free! So of course we had to stop and sample some.

Tonight we caught up with an Irish lady we’ve met along the way, and the Italians we dined with last night, accompanied by some newbies. It really is a social experience. And everyone is as big a drinker as me! So much for the diet.

It was hot again today, glorious weather, and will hopefully continue.Sampling the wine

Uterga to Lorca – 21 kms

Yes I’m doing song titles if you haven’t noticed. Fleetwood Mac today.

We started out at snails pace again today.

We had planned to only walk 15km, but despite taking our time and having many stops, we arrived at our intended destination at 1.30pm. It was too early to stop so we continued on to Lorca.

It was glorious day and got quite warm in the afternoon. It’s gonna be warm for the next few days according to the weather so let’s hope so.

Tonight we had dinner we 3 Italians and a guy from Japan.

The Italians had met earlier in the day and had been speaking English to each other for quite some time until they realised they were all italian.

Tonight we are in a private room with bathroom and the cost is only 60 euros incuding dinner for the two of us and unlimited red wine.

This place was an oasis in progress.

Pamplona to Uterga – 18km

We’re back on the trail today. Knee is still sore but pain is manageable. I found the walk today mostly easy though struggled a bit on the steep downhill.

The sun shone and the scenery was stunning and we found those statue things.

We are in an empty albergue tonight, hardly anyone here. One of the advantages of not stopping in the popular places.

I am getting my languages all mixed up. I keep speaking French when I should be speaking Spanish and occasionally some German sneaks in there. Maybe I should just stick with English.

Nice night chatting to an Irish lady and a French lady, both travelling on their own.

Here are the statue thingys:

Pamplona

I went to the doctor today and it’s good news.

I can continue to walk but I need to have a couple of days rest. We’d already planned a rest day in Pamplona anyway, so we’ve booked another night.

Mike has my cold now, so he is happy for a break too.

Today we visited the cathedral then sat around drinking coffee and soaking up the atmosphere.

After resting all day had a beer in the square at 5pm. It is the international festival of bands in Pamplona this week so we sat and watched a Canadian big band. They were good.

Afterwards, we found a nice bar and had a drink. At about 8pm we thought about leaving and looking for a restaurant, when some locals at the adjacent table ordered some squid. It looked amazing.

So we found a table inside, ordered somd squid and baby octopus, and it was so frikking delicious. We followed it up with the red wine and mushrooms. (Squid and mushrooms? Probably Mich’s idea of hell.)

But, best meal ever!