Palas de Rei to Arzua – 30kms

Today was a big 30 km day in the heat. I had set the alarm for 5.30am to get an early start and avoid the crowds.

After two vending machine coffees and some yoghurt cereal stuff we bought the night before, we were out the door at 6.15am.

I thought we were mad, the sun wasn’t even up yet. Surely nobody else would be up this early.

We were surprised that the cafes were already open and people were queuing up for breakfast. Thankfully we’d had ours and we were still ahead of the rush.

As we left the town, I looked behind me, and about 60 people were following us. WTF?

Looks like every one had the same idea.

It was a nicer walk today, through forests and the countryside. We even managed to escape the crowds for a bit. I never thought the sound of our footsteps crunching on gravel could be so peaceful.

I’m not sure what it is about the Spanish people. They speak so loud and it is constant, like verbal diarrhoea. They never shut up. And the language sounds so ugly to me.

Perhaps I’m being harsh, but it’s such a contrast the the previous 30 days where most people were respectful of each other and their surroundings.

We were glad we’d left early as we’d done the first 15kms by 10.30am, before the heat. Unfortunately it heated up after that, and the final 15kms were hard work with no breeze and little shade.

I was hoping to finish the Camino pain free but the top of my foot has started hurting. I think it’s due to overuse.

We have realised we haven’t had a rest day since Burgos, over 550kms ago, and it’s starting to show in both of us.

Only two more days of walking until we reach Santiago. Before now the walk was about the journey, taking each day as it comes, taking our time with no destination in mind.

Now in the last week it’s become about the destination. We are so close to Santiago that it’s become a challenge to get there.

We are in Arzua tonight. A lot of people are limping, all of them having started in Sarria. It just goes to show, whether you’re walking 100kms or 800kms, it’s still hard work.

We’ve met a few people we know along the way, and they are still winging it with accommodation and are having no problem. I think if you don’t stay in the main towns, accommodation is no problem.

We met up with army guy again, the one walking with a broken foot. He’s picked up some pilgrims and were planning on walking 56 kms to 1aSantiago today.

We also found out he has five kids. So…he’s been in the army, got a degree, travelled for four years, and has five daughters. Did I mention he is only 28? Sounds legit to me.

Anyway, we had the most amazing pilgrim menu. The beef was oh so yummy and the best I’ve eaten yet. Hopefully the protein will repair our muscles for another day.

Leaving town early:

Portomarin to Palas de Rei – 26 kms

We had planned to get away early this morning but that didn’t happen. The hotel had free breakfast, but not until 7am, so it was 7.45 by the time we got away, along with all the hoards of people. We have finally found them.

The day was spent walking surrounded by a constant cackle; a cocophany of languages being spoken all around us. It was awful.

So I plugged in my headphones and tuned them all out and it was much better.

I can’t understand why so many people choose to do only the last 100kms to Santiago. If I only wanted to walk 100kms, I’d choose a different, quieter route.

Today I felt like I was part of a big herd of cattle or sheep, and it’s really not me. But we are so close to Santiago where our flight leaves from that I have no interest in catching a bus now.

So I guess we have to suck it up, bellow baaaa, and get on with it.

We have a big day tomorrow, so we’re going to leave early and hopefully avoid all the people.

Sarria to Pontmarin – 26 kms

We’d been warned about Sarria and how bus loads of walkers arrive in their shiny fresh clothes, ready to walk the final 100kms to Santiago. When we arrived yesterday we saw nobody.

When we checked into our hotel. Nobody. It was like we’d arrived in a ghost town.

I thought the receptionist had said breakfast was at 9am and cost 7 euro. That’s too expensive and too late.

So when we were ready to leave this morning at 8.30am, we were surprised at everyone sitting down eating brekky.

Where did all the people come from? When did they arrive? And what’s with all the suitcases in reception? It was like we’d walked into an alternate universe.

The receptionist had meant breakfast was from 7-9 and cost 4 euros. Doh. So we ate before we left.

We left Sarria, still no other walkers in sight. We ran into the English guy we’ve been running into who met a girl and is doing the camino for the second time this year. He was having breakfast with his harem.

At dinner in Fonfria a couple of nights ago, he had two women fawning all over him. I asked Mike what they saw in him. He didn’t know.

Then the next morning at breakfast Mike realised what it was. He was dressed like Indiana Jones, complete with satchel bag (no backpack). So we’ve nicknamed him Indiana.

They’ve been having trouble finding accommodation on this stretch. Thankfully sister Lynda warned us and we’ve booked ahead.

That’s Indiana on the left there, with his harem.

There haven’t been that many people on the path, but certainly more than the last 30 days, and a lot of new fresh people. It’s nice having more people to chat to.

The worst traffic we encountered today was a herd of cows we had to stop for. They had big horns and passed real close. I was a little scared.

Then one started piggy backing another and I thought they were going to hit me, so I stepped back and into a shrub of stingy nettles. Ouch!

As we headed into the forest the sound of bagpipes bellowed from below. Was this another aural mirage?

Five minutes later a man emerged from the forest on a motorbike chased by a herd of cows. Okay, that’s an exaggeration, but the farmer told him to leave as they were moving the cows up the road.

Anyway, motorbike man morphed into bagpipe man. He parked his bike, whipped out his pipes and started playing. It was quite surreal.

Bagpipe man here:

The rest of the day involved stopping for lunch, catching up with the German who runs up hills, and his Dad, and eating magnums.

We met an English guy who mentioned at least four times how he was in the army. Apparently he is walking on a broken foot but the army has taught him to ignore the pain. Both Mike and I thought he was full of shit.

We are now at our hotel, drinking beer and writing our blogs.

The end.

Oh, and we met up with a guy we met weeks ago. That was exciting.

The end.

Fonfria to Sarria – 28 kms

Today was a long 9 hour walk to Sarria.

It was a beautiful morning as we left our mountain lodging at Fonfria. We were the last to leave as usual and had the path to ourselves. A weasel ran across the path in front of us and I didn’t scream.

It was really neat being above the clouds this morning, then descending down into them.

Most of the day was very scenic, winding through forest tracks and small towns smelling of cow shit.

After a long walk we stumbled upon an oasis in the middle of nowhere. Sofas and fruit, bread and biscuits and juices.

After a break at the hippy place, it seemed a long way before there was anywhere else to stop. After a couple of hours we heard music drifting up the mountain. Proud Mary was playing.

‘Is that a live band?’ I asked Mike.

‘I dunno.’

We kept on walking hoping all would be revealed around the next corner. Nope. Still no sign of the source of the music.

Half and hour later and the anticipation is killing us. We can hear them but we can’t see them. Is it an aural mirage? Is that even a thing?

Finally, we found them. In a small village a band was playing so we stopped and had a drink and listened to them.

The rest of the day dragged a bit and we were thankful to arrive in Sarria at 5pm. But what a shithole!

A quick shower and wash of our clothes, we went out in search of dinner.

3 beers later and 3 different places and no sign of a pilgrim dinner anywhere. We ended up with second rate tapas, not ideal after a long day.

Kinda ruined my day.

Vega de valcarce to Fonfria – 26 kms

Today we walked up, and up, and up. It has probably been my favourite day so far, finally away from the roads and up in the mountains. The views have been amazing.

The uphill today was way worse than the Pyranees. I wonder why they don’t warn about you that.

We met a young German guy who was waiting for his father. He was complaining how he’d been waiting almost two hours.

We left him to it and stopped for a rest in a town called O Cebreiro which was at the top of the mountain. We sat down and a bus load of tourists came along. We got outta there quick smart.

After that there was even more uphill. I was struggling up a steep hill and stopped to take a breather.

‘Shit this is hard,’ I said to Mike.

Just at that moment, the young German guy ran up the hill past us with his fully loaded backpack. He couldn’t have timed it better. We both stood and stared at him in awe.

A bit later on, we met him again. He told us how his father had been nagging him to wear a hat but he didn’t want to muck up his hair.

I took a closer look at him, and he was pruned rather neatly and dressed trendily, not in walking attire. Oh well, who am I to judge. I can’t run up hills.

Finally his father came along and sure enough, started having a go at him about not having a hat. So I told him the sun can damage the scalp and cause him to go bald. This had him really worried. Mike and I had a good laugh about that. Wouldn’t be surprised if we see him wearing a hat tomorrow.

At the top of yet another steep hill we ran into and English guy and an American girl. I asked if they’d started at St Jean. The Englishman said she had, but he was doing it for the second time.

‘The second time in a row?’ I asked.

‘Yep. Started in April, walked over 2000kms so far.’

‘Ah. I’ve heard about you,’ I said. ‘Everyone’s talking about you. You met a girl and decided to do it again with her.’

‘Yep, that’s me.’ He said.

So funny how word gets around the grapevine.

Tonight we are staying in the same alburgue as my sisters did. I read lynda’s blog where she mentioned fun social night so I though, I’m in.

So… it was a fun social night and I’m now pissed. Good night everyone. Big day tomorrow.

Ugghhh I hate it when my silk sak is being awkward. Goodnight.

Cacabelos to Vega de Valcarce – 24.5km

Well that’s the last time I go to bed sober. I was awake until well after midnight. Or perhaps my afternoon siesta from 4 to 6pm was to blame.

It was a nicer walk today although still alongside a road.We arrived in an albergue on the river at the base of a big hill we’re gonna climb tomorrow.

We cooked dinner as we’re sick of pilgrim meals. Chorizo and bacon pasta with a 1 euro carton of wine. Probably won’t get the cheap wine again. Not good.

But, it was a nice setting overlooking the river.

There is still hardly anyone on the trail. Apparently that will change in Sarria.

We have started pre booking accommodation as well as our flight home.

We have one week to get to Santiago. No pressure.

Molinaseca to Cacabelos – 24 kms

I forgot to mention cherry man yesterday. When we arrived in Molinaseca we went to a little shop and bought some sports drink and some chips.

We were almost back at our hotel when we heard ‘hola’ from a man behind us. The man from the shop had chased us down the road and handed us a punnet of cherries. So nice of him. Mike thought he liked me.

I also forgot to mention the big storm. We’d just spent a balmy evening eating dinner by the river. People were still swimming and the outdoor bars were packed.

We got back to our hotel which overlooked the bars and river and I thought we might be in for a noisy night.

Five minutes later the wind and rain started. Then the hail, then the screams. We struggled to close our windows as the storm whipped in.

I looked out the window and the place was deserted. It wasn’t such a noisy night after all.

Today we pounded the pavement all day, it was awful. We travelled through Ponferrada which is the largest town until we reach Santiago. It had a cool castle but other than that, it was a shithole and we’re glad we didn’t stay there.

At 2pm thunder clouds started rolling in, so we sped up the last five kms to make it to our hostel in time.

We’re staying in a nice hostel with a microwave and plates and stuff.

Not in the mood to go out, we picked up some melon, Parma ham, salad, and soup for dinner. And some peach juice. First alcohol free night! Probably won’t get any sleep.

Big tree fallen over where we stayed last night.

Castle at Ponferrada

Rabanal del camino to Molinaseca – 28 kms

Today was probably the most interesting walk so far.

We saw a man doing Camino on a unicycle. I thought I’d videod him but I hadn’t.

We were wandering along when a snake came at me. I screamed then stopped and tried to take a step back, but Mike was blocking my path.

‘What is it now?’ he asked, used to my screaming.

Too terrified to say anything I just pointed and we both stayed silent as a large snake slithered across the road in front of us and into the bushes.

A moment’s silence, then we continued, hoping it wouldn’t jump back out at us. It didn’t.

Other than that there was a lot of dowhill. I’d heard there was a dangerous rocky downhill into molinaseca and people were recommending to go down the road. This was plastered all over Facebook and the Camino forums.

I thought I also would go down the road because of my knee. I waited for the danger signs. They didn’t happen. I waited for the steep downhill. It didn’t happen.

Next thing we’re in Molinaseca and I’m wondering what all the fuss was about. As far as I was concerned, it1 was the most interesting walk on Camino so far.

We sat by the river, had a couple of beers, then ordered a pilgrim dinner. It was different to most meals and was quite yummy.

After dinner we bumped into some people from south America who we’ve said hello to on the trail weeks ago but we’ve never officially met.

When we met it was like we were old friends, even though they can’t speak English and we can’t speak south American. It’s a kinda weird camaraderie between walkers when they’ve walked 800 odd kms together.

We also bumped into close Walker, but he was taxiing to ponferadda as he’s on a tight schedule.

My starter

Mike’s starter

Astorga to Rabanal del Camino – 22 kms

Today we encountered the close Walker, similar to the close talker on Seinfeld.

When we left our hotel this morning we were followed out by an American walker who had also stayed there.

We were walking along a narrow bit of road and he was right behind me. I said to Mike, let’s step aside and let this guy past.

The guy heard me and said, ‘nah that’s ok, I’m walking slow too.’

We walked and chatted for a bit with the usual interview of where are you from, Portland? Yes I wanna go there, blah blah etc etc.

He stopped to take some photos of a church and we continued on.

Next thing I sense someone behind me, and sure enough, he’s snuck up on me again, right behind me. Creepy.

We crossed the road and I stopped and adjusted my shoe to let him get ahead.

Then at the next town I stopped and filled up my water bottle. Next thing, he’s right on my tail again. So I moved to the other side of the street and he started tailgating Mike.

I saw a bar up ahead. ‘Mike, let’s stop and get a croissant.’

So we did and in the distance I saw him leech onto a couple of girls.

He seemed nice enough, but I don’t like someone 3 feet behind me, let alone right there. We’ll see if we cross him again.

Tonight we went for an early dinner. 6pm! It’s like being at home in the winter. As well as that, the temperature dropped to 26 degrees and I was really cold. Dammit! It was the one night we came out without a jumper.

We got chatting to a guy from Germany and a lady from Switzerland. They both started before us from st Jean and have been taking their time also. It’s nice to meet others that don’t think it’s a race.

Big day tomorrow.

My starter

Mike’s starter

Stork in the church

Leon to Astorga – 50kms

Today we said goodbye to our bikes. They were a good travel companion and they cut 10 boring days of walking to 4 days of cycling.

Astorga is a nice town. We looked at some Roman remains buried under the streets. We also had a look through the fairytale palace and castle which had lots of old things in it dating back to the 1500s.

Neither of us had the energy for tapas bar crawling so we opted for the pilgrim dinner at our hotel.

Roman remains

Cycling into Astorga