Day 31 – a swan attacked a boat

What a wonderful day it was today.

We woke up in Nevers after a great nights sleep. We’d put our tent tarp over the tent and we’re glad we had as it was covered in dew this morning.

There were two lots of German cyclists near us who are bike packing. That’s where you pack super light and rather than panniers they have their bits strapped onto the frame. Means they are better equipped to go off-road. But still, they had their tent and cooking gear but barely any luggage. I had serious light-packing envy if that’s even a thing.

We were the last to leave camp as per usual but it was only to be a short day so why rush. Camping grounds are becoming less frequent and we had the option on riding 36 kms or 74.

It was amazing cycling alongside the canals all day. We stopped a number of times to watch the canal boats travel through the locks. The lock keeper would run out unlock the lock by winding a thing to equalise the water. Then the suspense of watching a large boat fit through with only mms on each side to spare. I made sure to film it to add to his pressure.

The other funny thing that happened today was watching a swan attack a boat. It had its wings raised in attack mode and was actually attacking a canal boat as it travelled down the canal. I got a video of it so you’ll have to wait for that episode.

We arrived at the first campsite at 2.30pm and it was so beautiful we decided to stop. We are camping right beside the River watching rowers row up and down.

We’ve put a big load of washing on. They have super fancy machines here where you pay with Google pay, and it even adds detergent for you! Only 3.50 for the experience. Most machines cos 4.00

For dinner we had a ready made salad from lidl. Saves on cooking and washing up.

Day 30 Nevers say Never

We cycled 56 kms today and hardly noticed it. The weather is sunny and warm again and I’ve been wearing my knee brace which helps a lot.

A quiet day alongside canals and the Loire river. We got a little lost in a town called Marseilles and ended up on a grass track next to the canal. We soon found the right path again though.

We had to detour off the route to go to Decathlon as my front tyre was perishing. Turned out 3 of our tyres had perished and were in a bad way. So now I have two new tyres and Mike has a new front one. I’m feeling better about that as it’s been worrying me for days.

So after our visit to decathlon we navigated to the town of Nevers and we’re currently camping down by the river with a wonderful view of the town.

We did a quick photo snap tour of the town then found a supermarket for supplies. We decided on a ready made salad from the supermarket as it seemed easier and probably healthier than cooking.

Now just watching the sun set.

Day 29 – another lazy day

We woke up this morning nice and cosy is our little chalet. It was cold and pissing down with rain, so we decided to stay another night.

The weather cleared in the afternoon so we got some supplies from the supermarket. It still amazes me how France has not moved forward with their hygiene standards after COVID.

When we first cycle toured around France 10 years ago, I remember cringing at how they handled bread with their hands after touching money. Yet they are still doing exactly that. Even pastries and cakes, they handle your money, then pick them up with their hands whereas in Nz they would at least use tongs.

But, guess we just need to turn a blind eye, or not eat pastries and baguettes.

It was nice to have a quiet day. It’s a scenic little town right in the banks of the Loire, with some little canals and canal boats off to the side.

Our chalet is nice and I’ve managed to get some videos edited. Now just need some wifi to upload them.

Back on the road tomorrow. We need to get to Decathlon as my bike needs a new front tyre as it looks like it’s perishing.

Day 28 – Far Canals

We had a lazy morning at our b&b. Breakfast at 8am, then on the road by about 10am.

It just started to sprinkle with rain as we left, and it was like that on and off for the day.

Again we had nice flat cycle paths which made for easy riding. We followed mainly canals today and on the dykes of the Loire river for a bit.

The highlight of my day was getting up close and personal with the nuclear power station. We were right next to it. I snapped a few photos before noticing the no photography sign. Mysteriously the photos have now disappeared from my phone.

Okay, I just made that last bit up. We also came across a tree which had fallen across the path. We had to take all our panniers off the bikes to lift our bikes over.

We found the campground at about 3pm, just as it started to rain heavily. Thankfully they had a chalet available so we took that. As we cycled into the campground we felt sorry for all the campers in their drenched tents. Yuck. It’s really cold too so we have the heating on in our chalet.

The early stop means I’ve been able to get some videos edited. Just need to get some decent wifi to upload them.

Day 27 – The Rain has Finally Arrived.

It was cooler today and so much easier to cycle in. We did 50km and could easily have done more, whereas on the hotter days we were petering out after only 30km.

We got away from our little cabin at 10am and it just started to spit with rain. Then it stopped and started with drizzle all day but it was quite nice for a change.

We rode along a bridge which had a canal on it. The bridge was designed by the same people that did the Eiffel tower.

We arrived at our camp at 3pm just as a torrential downpour happened. There was a marquee there, so we sheltered under it. Under the marquee was a swimming pool and in the pool was a giant fish. Not sure why there was a fish in a swimming pool, but it seemed cruel.

The campground office didn’t open until 5pm and the thought of sitting around in the cold and wet didn’t appeal, so we started searching for hotels, but as it was Saturday night and there was a festival in town, they were all booked out.

We found a chambre which was nearby so Mike called them and thankfully they had a room and it was only a 10 minute cycle ride. The lady didn’t speak a word of English and she was trying to tell me something. She put it into her phone to translate and held it out for me to view. There were now two languages written that I couldn’t understand. She’d translated into Dutch!

Anyway, our room is massive with a double bed and five single beds. Reminds me of some of the places we stayed in on camino. But we have it all to ourselves and our own bathroom too.

We walked into town and ate out at the only restaurant there.

Day 25 and 26 – Nice riding and a rest day

It was a very warm day today, not quite hot. The roads were smooth and mostly easy to follow until we got to the town of Chateauneuf.

Suddenly the route was sending us on a forest trail, muddy in parts and it almost sent us flying a couple of times. It was a mountain bike track, not a path for touring bikes.

We saw another cyclist riding on a foot path which ran adjacent to the muddy track so we followed them and this was much better.

After a while the paths returned to tarmac and it was lovely cycling alongside the river.

We cycled 51 kms today and are staying in a cabin at the campground for two nights.

The next day we had a lazy morning then visited the chateau in town. It was neat wandering around and the place had been dressed like it was in the olden days.

They are setting up in the castle courtyard for a band that is playing there tonight called Cock Robin. Apparently they were big in the 80s in continental Europe. We’d never heard of them, but we would have gone except the concert was sold out. Would have been neat seeing a concert in a chateau.

After the chateau we headed back to camp and almost made it before the torrential downpour. Almost.

We were just glad we had a cabin and weren’t in our little tent.

The temperature has dropped and it’s going to be a high of 18 tomorrow. When we’ve been having weather consistently in the mid to high 30s, this is going to feel cold. Glad I didn’t ditch my layers yet!

Day 24 – Old Orleans

The previous evening we went to bed early (9.30pm) and the band playing next to the campground rocked us to sleep. It was like being at a festival and we both slept well. We had our tarp set up over the tent and it kept our tent dry from the rain during the night.

The campground had kids on a school camp but they didn’t make too much noise. It just concerned me a bit when i went to have my shower and one was having a covid test in the shower block. Nobody wears masks here and there seems to be a lot of people with bad coughs (or maybe I’m just noticing it more).

It was a nice day of cycling alongside the Loire river on cycle paths. Easy cycling, but my knee continues to give me grief on hills, especially walking up them. But we soon need to get our kms up if we are to make it back to Cherbourg before our 90 days in the EU are up.

In the afternoon, big black clouds appeared around us and I thought I heard thunder in the distance. Then big splots of rain came at us, so we stopped and waterproofed our bikes and got our rain coats handy. Then the big splots stopped barely before they started and it didn’t actually rain.

We made it to the city of Orleans and we are staying in a hotel so we can explore the town. But as soon as we got to our room, we passed out on the bed, exhausted. Not sure why we’re so tired, but we haven’t had a decent meal for almost a week.

<A little bit of history> Joan of Arc led an army to relieve Orleans from the siege it was under back in the 1400s which made her a heroine. She then continued to lead armies during the 100 year war against the Brits. She was captured by a mercenary and handed over to the English where she was tried for heresy and was burned at the stake. Some time after she was killed, the catholic church held an enquiry and pardoned her. Sorry about the sad story.</end>

At 7.30pm we walked the 15 mins into town for some dinner. We chose chicken, chips and salad and it was a huge plate for only 9 euros, and it was yumy. Just as we were finishing up, the rain finally came and it pelted it down. We had to walk back to our hotel in the torrential downpour and we got soaked. Thankfully we are in a hotel and not camping.

We did 41 kms today.

Day 23 – Another easy day

Just 36 kms again today as there is no other camping for another 43 kms.

We had another torrential downpour last night at 1.30am accompanied by more thunder and lightning directly overhead. We had our tent tarp over our tent and it stayed relatively dry and we managed to pack up a dry tent.

We have now run out of cereal. We had a little bit for breakfast but due to lack of shops we’ve been unable to replace it.

We left camp this morning a little hungry and with very little water. About an hour into our ride we were pleased to find a little patisserie which served coffee. We also ordered pastry each despite my pledge to give them up. Tomorrow.

It was an easy but hard day today. The riding was easy and cool, a light mist surrounded us for most of the day. I just seemed to be lacking energy, probably due to bad diet and lack of sleep.

We found a nice campground beside the river for only 13 euros. It’s the summer solstice here and there’s a good band playing next to the camp.

We found a shop but they had no cereal. So we bought bacon and zucchini and made a pasta. Tomorrow we go to Orleans.

Day 22 – Taking it Easy

We had spectacular thunder and lightning storms last night. We’d set up our tarp so we could sit under it if it rained and I was watching the storms when the tarp got full of water and collapsed over me.

I dried myself off and crawled into bed, the rain pelting down and flashes of lightning illuminating our tent.

Finally the storms moved away and I could hear them rumbling in the distance. Then the rain stopped and I finally got to sleep after midnight.

We had a slow start to the day. We had tea, followed by coffee, followed by muesli, followed by waiting for the sun to dry out tent.

We eventually got packed up and left camp around 11am. We cycled through the town of Amboise, then pushed our bikes up a very steep hill.

It was threatening to rain all day but it still hasn’t happened. We only rode 30 kms today as we found a nice campsite by the river for only 10 euros. It also has a shelter beside our tent which is good as dark clouds had appeared. So we decided to stop at 2.30pm and have a quiet afternoon. It was actually cool enough to crawl into the tent and have an afternoon nap.

I awoke to some French cycle tourists who had decided to join us at the shelter. They were very nice and even offered to share their wine with us! We politely declined.

As per usual, there is no shop here, so we had to rely on emergency rations. We had some dried salami that didn’t need refrigeration and fried it up with some rice. I also fried up some stale baguette in garlic oil and it was actually quite nice. Not a vegetable is sight though.

We also ran into a couple of English cycle tourers we ran into a few days ago. They are taking it slowly like us, not wanting to miss anything. They camped here last night as well and didn’t get the rain we got in Amboise.

A nice sunset tonight and still no rain as yet.

Day 21 – where did the day go?

A short ride of only 28 kms. But it still took us 6 hours.

We left our hotel in Tours about 10am and took our time, it was a nice cycle ride alongside the river for most of the day.

After a while we headed inland a bit and cycled through wineries and fields of wheat. Mike put the drone up and got a couple of shots.

It’s a Sunday and everything is closed so we were pleased to find a little cafe open at lunchtime for a snack and a drink.

Apart from that, I’m not sure how it took us so long to go only 30kms.

We arrived in the town of Amboise and we’re struck by the magnificence of the chateau. Our campsite is on an island and I just found out sister Jenny lived on this island for a few weeks when she was picking apples. Would have been in the 70s. So cool.

Thunder is rumbling all around us and we’ve already had a couple of showers. We have our tarp set up so we can sit under it.

After a stroll around the quirky town with wonky medieval buildings, we went for dinner at the restaurant next to the campground.

It was about mid 30s today, and the rain has turned the place into a sauna. Almost cool enough to go to bed. Almost.