Day 5 on the Blueridge parkway and Dads birthday

We’d only expected to be driving the parkway for 3 days and here we are 5 days later, still going!

Our engine check light has been coming on and off for a few days. When we stopped at a garage to fill up we asked the mechanic there to take a look at the codes. He said as long as the van is running fine, none of the codes should be a problem.

We stopped off at the music centre which is on the parkway. It has a museum about the history of bluegrass music and it was interesting. They had some mountain music scheduled to start at midday, we we went for a hike to fill in time until then.

The band was 3 guys and a lady, 2 guitars, a double bass and my new favourite, a banjo!

We watched them for a bit then headed on our way. we saw many deer on our drive today, but no bears.

There were more stunning overlooks, but we didn’t feel like stopping off for hikes as it was really hot and humid.

We arrived at the national park camping ground just before 6pm and there was no internet coverage, and I was planning to talk to dad at 6.10 pm for his birthday. apparently there was a lodge up the road with wifi.

We decided to choose our camping spot first then go up to the lodge. As we drove around the campground, it was very dark and damp, surrounded by trees and the parking spots were rutted and not level. There were only a handful of campers there so plenty of space, so we headed to the lodge first so I wouldn’t miss my call with Dad, John and Paul.

We had a good chat with the boys, Dad seemed to be happy watching Paul’s fancy organ play happy birthday. It was quite impressive.

After the call, neither of us fancied going back to the damp campground so we asked if we could stay the night in the lodge carpark. They said it shouldn’t be a problem, so we had dinner there and slept in the carpark.

Bikes and a Foggy Start

This morning we woke up in the clouds. A thick mist surrounded us and I’m not sure if it was that or the fact we had internet which was to blame for our late start. We finally got away from camp at 10am and as we got off the mountains the day cleared.

We headed off the Blueridge parkway today to go to a town in Galax, Virginia. There is a rail trail here we want to ride.

We stopped at the visitor centre in Galax and they suggested staying in the town of Fries (pronounced freeze). We stayed at a very expensive but very nice rv park and had full hookup, wifi and it was right on the cycle path.

Big black clouds loomed in the distance but we chanced it and hopped on our bikes, only having ridden them once before .

It was great being back on the bikes and it was a pretty trail alongside the river. The rail trail goes for 57 miles, but we rode just over an hour and then headed back.

It was really warm and humid but I’m actually starting to like it. I think Texas has conditioned us well.

I spent the afternoon doing a little video for Dad, thankful we had wifi. So hopefully you guys can show it to him.

This blog didn’t upload yesterday so is a day behind.

Day 3 on the Blueridge Parkway

The Crabtree falls walk started right from our campsite, so we did this first thing. It was a 1.5 hour loop walk which took us down to a cascading waterfall.

On the way up we scrambled up a steep cliff. All trails did say it was strenuous so we didn’t doubt it too much. Then when it seemed clear it was not a path, we stopped and checked the AllTrails map I had downloaded. Sure enough, we had taken a wrong turn.

We scrambled back down and found the right path which had steps. But we’ve learned if they say it’s a strenuous walk, it’s more likely moderate for our fitness level.

It was a lovely walk and took us just over an hour.

Our next stop was the Linville falls. When we arrived at the carpark it was full. I almost told Mike to drive on out, fearing a repeat of Clingmans Dome hoards. But Mike insisted we do it and I was glad we did.

It was a short walk to the first waterfall lookout and this was where most of the people were. But there were many other walks to other overlooks and we did all of them. It was a nice walk and stunning views.

We came off the route to fuel and stock up as there are no shops if the Blueridge parkway itself. We stopped in the very busy town of Boone and headed for the Walmart.

I had rolled my ankle when we were in Texas, and now I’m suffering some plantar fasciitis so i wanted to buy a golf ball to roll it out. But they didn’t sell single balls, so I got a baseball instead and it works ok.

We passed the cyclists we had met the previous evening and stopped to chat like we were old friends. They are cycling to the rugby World Cup in Paris and helping deliver the official match whistle.

We stopped the night at another national park campground. A man opposite us plated his banjo and sang folky songs so that was cool. A couple we met the night before came over and chatted with us and have invited us to visit them in Florida.

We also met a couple of other YouTubers, which was cool. People are just so friendly and approachable.

This time we found a spot out in the open as in not under trees, and our solar kept our power from going flat.

We saw a Bear!

Blueridge parkway day 2

We were up early again and away from camp by 8.30. First stop, climb a mountain!

It was a steady uphill climb up mt Pisgah for about 40 minutes, but it was a stunning view from the top. 360 degree views over the Blueridge mountains. We could see as far as the great smoky mountains where we were a few days ago.

After the walk we continued along the Blueridge parkway. The skies were a brilliant blue and the views were even more stunning than yesterday.

We met a couple from Florida who are camping for free at the overlooks. Apparently it’s not allowed but nobody has hassled them. I asked if they felt safe and he said he felt really safe with his handgun in the door! So that might be an option for us. Not the gun, but camping for free with incredible views

The highlight was seeing a bear run across the road in front of us, but it was too fast to film.

We also climbed to the top of Mt Mitchell which is the highest point east of the Mississippi River. But it was only a 300 ft uphill walk.

We didn’t get to our camp until after 6pm and when we got there, another surprise awaited us. Up in the tree was a big owl. I’d never seen one in the wild before and it was very exciting. I managed to get some nice shots of it.

We are in another nice national park camp, still no electricity or showers though. But our battery didn’t run flat last night so Mikes changes seem to have worked.

We met a couple of South African guys who are cycle touring. The have cycled all the way from Argentina and are cycling to New York, then to Ireland and working their way down to France. What an adventure!

We had a simple feed of bacon and scrambled eggs in a tortilla wrap. We are absolutely exhausted.

Blue Ridge Parkway Day 1

We awoke early and we’re on the road by 8am. It’s amazing how quickly we get moving when there’s no internet. It really is a time waster in the mornings.

The only thing we had running on our battery overnight was the fridge, and just before we were due to leave, the battery shut off again. So we’re going to need a bigger battery. Mike will rewire our solar controller in case that is shutting it off.

The weather has changed from a stifling sticky humidity to cool in the mornings. We actually had to dig out our jumpers. But it’s a pleasant change.

Today we started on the Blueridge parkway which is an 800km scenic drive through the Blueridge mountains. There are many pull-ins and overlooks along the way. It is very beautiful.

There are also many walks along the way. We stopped off at a lookout and hiked about a km up a very steep hill to a lookout at the top. At the top was a stunning view over the mountains.

There were two guys there setting up a radio transmitter. It’s a hobby they do, climb mountains and set up their gear and see how far they can reach. They transmit on low power which means communicating via Morse code and have even reached NZ before.

We continued our drive, pulling into overlooks, sometimes getting out of the car, other times just looking and driving off.

Today we past the highest point on the Blueridge parkway at 6053 feet. It was there we met another couple driving a van similar to ours. We immediately bonded over vans and got chatting. I was talking to the lady and her husband came over and said ‘I see you’ve made van friends.’ I thought it was funny. They told us about a campground they were staying at up the road so we decided to stay there.

It’s another national park camp, only $10 per night and we have our own private spot. It’s lovely. There’s no power but they have a shower which was more than needed, not having had one for a couple of days. Although I did have a swim.

I love the camping setup they have here in national and state parks. It’s like staying in a doc camp but you have your own site, usually on a firm surface, your own picnic table and fire pit and a pole to hang your rubbish. There is normally water and a dump station, always toilets and sometimes a shower. Sometimes also electricity, water, and sewer on your site. It’s very civilised, yet still the feeling on being in the bush. And a similar price.

We’re going to spend a few days driving the Blueridge parkway to Virginia.

The Sound of Silence

I awoke in the middle of the night to silence. But not in a good way. Usually the fridge and fans are running, but they’d all stopped.

We were camping off-grid and our house battery had run flat. We’d never had this problem before but I think it was due to running the ceiling fan all day and night.

As a result I didn’t get much sleep and when my alarm went off at 5.30am I stopped it, rolled over and went back to sleep. So much for an early start.

Neither of us were in a hurry to move this morning , having had a hectic few days of driving, but when our Neighbour started his generator at 8.30 we decided it was time to leave.

We drove the road to nowhere, an unfinished road with a tunnel at the end. There was a two hour goldmine loop that we decided to do. Someone had commented on AllTrails that they saw a bear there last week, so I was a little nervous.

The smoky mountains are very touristy so we were pleasantly surprised to find we were the only ones on the trail. It wasn’t until we were halfway around that we saw one other couple walking in reverse. They hadn’t seen a bear either.

Halfway was a beautiful lake. A bunch of fish swam up waiting to be fed. We had some of our fruitcake and tossed them some crumbs and they all scrambled to eat them.

After the walk we drove up to the Clingmans dome, the highest point in North Carolina. It’s a man made structure which has 360 degree views over the Smokies. It was a windy and steep drive and Rodger got a little hot, so we had to stop at the many scenic lookouts. We stopped and had lunch at one of them, looking out over the mountains.

At the top of the mountain, we found all the people. There was a queue of cars looking for a parking spot. We lucked out, managing to grab a free spot as someone was leaving.

We joined the hoards and started the trek up the steep but paved road. We overtook quite a few people as we powered our way up, eager to see the views from the top.

About 3/4 of the way up we came to the Appalachian trail, which cuts across the path. I could just imaging walking the trail, enjoying the solitude of the mountains, to having to stop and wait for people. It would be a real WTF moment! We walked a bit of the trail, just to say we’d done it!

We continued up the paved path, dodging all the people. It was not an easy walk and a lot of people were struggling. Especially the older and overweight ones. But it would be worth it for the views.

But when we got to the top it was shrouded in mist, no view to be seen. 360 degrees of mist. We’d had better views on the drive up!

We headed back down and got out of there, leaving the hoards still struggling to get to the top!

By the time we got down from the mountain it was 4pm so we decided to camp at the Smokemont campground, which is another national park camp with no power or showers. We’ll make sure not to run our fan tonight in the hope our fridge stays running.

At least at this camp they have a section away from the generator people.

Tomorrow, we drive the scenic Blue Ridge Parkway to Virginia.

Great Smoky Mountains

We had a more leisurely start to the day knowing we had less than 2 hours drive to the great smoky mountains.

As we crossed into North Carolina we put on James Taylor’s Carolina in my mind to put us in the mood.

We stopped at the visitor centre at Bryson City, a quaint town on the edge of the Smokies. The lady there recommended a campground nearby and a hike with 3 waterfalls on it.

As it was Sunday afternoon it was very busy and we were lucky to get the last spot in the campground. It’s only $15 for the night with our discount card. It’s a nice spot only slightly ruined by our neighbours noisy generator.

We went for our walk, following the river, then up a steep hill to the Juney Whank waterfall. An Amish family we’re there all dressed in their Sunday best. They had travelled 700kms as their mother was having surgery in Atlanta. So they were doing a bit of sightseeing beforehand.

Lots of people were tubing down the river. I would loved to have given it a go, but the thought of carrying the tube up a steep incline didn’t really appeal. Plus it looked a bit scary. One guy was walking back down with his tube and an ice pack on his head.

We visited the two other waterfalls then I had a swim. The water was freezing having come straight off the blue ridge mountain, but I braved it and was glad I did. It was nice to cool off from the heat and humidity.

Back at camp we sat and listened to the noisy generator for a bit. After about an hour they came back to their camp and turned it off and it was such a relief.

Tomorrow we shall explore the smokies some more before picking up the blue ridge parkway and following it to Virginia. I feel like I’m in a John Denver song.

There are about 1500 bears in the great smoky mountains. That’s 2 bears per square mile. So we might get up early in the morning with the hope of seeing one.

From Alabama to Georgia

We set the alarm for 5.30am to get an early start for our hike. We drove 30 mins down a gravel road and parked at a small parking spot at the trail head. But there was no sign to say we were in the right place, or even if there was a trail here. And we were the only ones there.

I felt a bit nervous in the middle of nowhere but Mike said they don’t put signposts in national forests.

The path was well formed, but at the first sign of getting lost or seeing a bear this early in the morning, I was heading back to the car!

But, thankfully it was a good track all the way and a wonderful walk alongside the river. Mike only walked into one spider web.

After about an hours walking we came to a neat waterfall that you could walk around behind it. I was tempted to have a swim but didn’t.

We hadn’t seen anyone on our walk which we thought was strange on a sat morning, but when we were almost back at the car, streams of people started walking in, looked like a hiking group with their poles.

It was 9.30 by the the time we got back to the car. It had been sitting in the sun for a couple of hours and it was already hot and humid.

When we’d arrived we were the only ones, now there were cars parked along the narrow road. Mike tried to reverse out and went over a steep bit and the bike rack wedged in the gravel. It was just as well otherwise he would have hit a parked car as he’d misjudged it. I’d offered to get out and guide him but he said I didn’t need me to.

He managed to drive back up to the parking space. I decided guide him and told him he would have to reverse out the same way he went in and turn around up the road somewhere. I asked a couple who had just arrived if there was somewhere to turn around and they said about half a mile up the road.

I went back to tell Mike only to see him trying to turn the van around in the tiny carpark. He was about the crash the bikes into a wall so I shouted for him to stop. Thankfully he heard me. I don’t think he has gotten used to the extra length with the bikes on.

I guided him out the way we went in, found a place to turn around and finally we were on our way.

There were a few other waterfalls and walks we wanted to do, but it absolutely bucketed down with rain, so we kept on driving.

It was another long day driving today, and we lost an hour going east. There seemed to be nowhere to stop and camp without heading way off our route. Then about 6pm we saw a sign to the national forest and found a full, but very nice campground by a lake where I had a swim.

We are now about 2 hours drive from the great smoky mountains, where we plan to stay a few days and drive the blue ridge parkway to Virginia.

From Arkansas to Alabama

Today we woke to a beautiful calm morning on the lake. I’m feeling so much happier now the weather is cooler.

We’d planned another long driving day of about 6 hours. We stopped about 2pm and did a little bush walk to a natural bridge and some caves. We also found the ranger station and Mike was able to get an America the beautiful pass which gives us access to all the national parks and forests and also discounts on campgrounds.

It usually costs $80 per year but because mike is a senior he got it as a one off fee forever. And it covers 6 people in the car. So already on our first night camping we saved $18.

We are loving being back in the road again and loving the modifications we’ve made to our van. Having a swivel table in the centre of our lounge is the best thing followed closely by the table covering our toilet. Also we now have solar on the roof to enable us to go off grid for longer. You’ll see all our changes in an upcoming video.

Tomorrow we’re going for a hike in the Bankhead forest to the Sougahoagdee falls.

Getting Cooler

We had a great nights sleep in the Davy Crockett nation forest. It was our first night in the van leaving the air conditioning going all night.

We’d planned to get away early to get a few cool hours of driving, but by the time we got lost finding our way out, and going to the dump station, it was 7.45am.

I’ve bought a fancy fan that I can put ice cubes in and if you hold it close to your body it works really well. But only lasts about 15 mins before you have to replace the ice.

We drove through 3 states today. Texas, Louisiana, and Arkansas.

It was a long days drive, too hot to stop for long. We had a severe downfall of rain when we arrived in Arkansas. It was a bit scary driving in it with thunder cracking overhead, but it lasted about 10 minutes before we were out the other side of the storm.

We are in a lovely spot in the Lake Chicot State park in Arkansas, camped overlooking the lake. It’s much cooler too after the rain and a nice breeze blowing off the lake. Mike got a $10 discount for being a senior so it’s costing us $29 for full hookup ( including sewer) and a fantastic view.

And we had a nice nights sleep without the air conditioning running.

Today we are heading for Bankhead national forest which is about 6 hours drive.