Uterga to Lorca – 21 kms

Yes I’m doing song titles if you haven’t noticed. Fleetwood Mac today.

We started out at snails pace again today.

We had planned to only walk 15km, but despite taking our time and having many stops, we arrived at our intended destination at 1.30pm. It was too early to stop so we continued on to Lorca.

It was glorious day and got quite warm in the afternoon. It’s gonna be warm for the next few days according to the weather so let’s hope so.

Tonight we had dinner we 3 Italians and a guy from Japan.

The Italians had met earlier in the day and had been speaking English to each other for quite some time until they realised they were all italian.

Tonight we are in a private room with bathroom and the cost is only 60 euros incuding dinner for the two of us and unlimited red wine.

This place was an oasis in progress.

Pamplona to Uterga – 18km

We’re back on the trail today. Knee is still sore but pain is manageable. I found the walk today mostly easy though struggled a bit on the steep downhill.

The sun shone and the scenery was stunning and we found those statue things.

We are in an empty albergue tonight, hardly anyone here. One of the advantages of not stopping in the popular places.

I am getting my languages all mixed up. I keep speaking French when I should be speaking Spanish and occasionally some German sneaks in there. Maybe I should just stick with English.

Nice night chatting to an Irish lady and a French lady, both travelling on their own.

Here are the statue thingys:

Pamplona

I went to the doctor today and it’s good news.

I can continue to walk but I need to have a couple of days rest. We’d already planned a rest day in Pamplona anyway, so we’ve booked another night.

Mike has my cold now, so he is happy for a break too.

Today we visited the cathedral then sat around drinking coffee and soaking up the atmosphere.

After resting all day had a beer in the square at 5pm. It is the international festival of bands in Pamplona this week so we sat and watched a Canadian big band. They were good.

Afterwards, we found a nice bar and had a drink. At about 8pm we thought about leaving and looking for a restaurant, when some locals at the adjacent table ordered some squid. It looked amazing.

So we found a table inside, ordered somd squid and baby octopus, and it was so frikking delicious. We followed it up with the red wine and mushrooms. (Squid and mushrooms? Probably Mich’s idea of hell.)

But, best meal ever!

We’ve met some interesting people on the walk and today we say goodbye to Motorcycle Man. He is from Austria and was touring France by motorbike.

His GPS broke down and he didn’t know where he was. He arrived in a town, no idea where he was, and noticed lots of walkers.

It was then he realised it was St Jean Pied de Port, where the main camino starts.

So a last minute decision, he buys a back pack and decides to walk.

We met him and his cheeky manner in Orrison. He must be in his 50s, but had women hanging on his every word. He was also a 600cc motorcycle racer and he oozed charm.

But his knees packed up yesterday. His miniscus he thinks. So he is going back to get his bike and continue touring.

Quebec Lady

We met quebec lady on our first night. Just recently she turned 60 and decided she wanted to do something for herself.

She had never been on an aeroplane, and never travelled at all in her life.

So she left her husband at home and embarked on her travels on her own. I actually hugged her and told her I was proud of her. Yes, I was drunk.

The Kiwi

We had our first kiwi sighting yesterday and yes he was from Hamilton. He even played rugby against brother-in-law John back in the day.

He met with an American who led him astray. The american had all the navigation gadgets and told him the had to veer off the path as the “other” way was dangerous.

After walking for 5 hours in the wrong direction, the kiwi told him he was full of shit and started hiking back up the steep hill in the correct direction. It ended up a ten hour day for him, and he wasn’t happy.

Zubiri to Pamplona

Today the sun was shining and we left the alburgue with a spring in our step.

For some reason I picked up the pace today, overtaking everyone in sight. My body felt great.

That feeling didn’t quite make it through the day. With 8 kms to go, my left knee started hurting. I’ve never hsd problems with that knee before, and cursed myself for being thankful I had no knee problems.

I struggled the last 8km, and now I don’t know what to do about it as it’s really sore. I bought a knee brace and that seems to help a bit.

This evening was low key. We had some pintxos (tapas) for dinner and settled for an early night to rest our weary bodies.

Thankfully we have a rest day tomorrow and I’ll try and find a doctor. So not sure if we’ll be continuing the walk at this stage.

Roncesvalles to Zubiri – 22km

Today the sun shone for some of the day and we had very little rain. In fact, the one time it did rain, we were right outside a cafe. So we stopped and had a coffee until it stopped.

It was a much nicer walk today and it was fantastic being able to see more than 5 feet in front of us.

We met judgy lady again and she was like our best friend. And when at dinner she said she wasn’t religious, we were quite surprised.

“But you told us off for living in sin.”

“Really, i said that?’

‘Yep’

“Well I’ve sinned many times, sometimes in one night”

Seriously , this is what she said.

And we met our first kiwi on the trip. Guess where he’s from. Yep. HAMILTON.

Not much else to report other than my feet hurt and my hips hurt.

Orrisson to Roncevalles 17.97 kms

Today we woke up in the clouds. When we started walking it rained. All day. It was freezing.

I layered up with all the clothes I’d packed and mostly stayed warm. This year we’re using poncho’s rather the rain coats. Not sure it was a good decision.

It was nice being able to tuck my hands underneath to keep them warm, but it meant I couldn’t use my poles.

We walked 17km straight, without a break (not even to eat our packed lunch) because it was too cold and wet to stop. I’m sure there would have been really nice views.

The uphill part was okay (I love going up) but the pain started on the downhill stretch and the last 2 km were a struggle.

We are now tucked up nice and warm in a hotel, having a little rest before dinner.

While we waited for dinner we had a drink in the bar and chatted with some walkers we met yesterday, and some new ones. We met our first judgy walker today.

We were having a lovely chat with a lady from America, who is doing this camino for her fourth time.

She noticed I wasn’t wearing a wedding ring. “Are you two married?” She asked.

“Nope,” we said.

“Oh, so you’re living in sin?”

Seriously, these were her words.

“No,We’re just living together.”

“But if you’re not married, you’re living in sin.”

Seriously???

“No. We don’t need a piece of paper to enable us to live together. We’re not hurting anybody.”

“Oh. Okay then,” she said, and continued to talk to us. Clearly she wasn’t that bothered but I’ve never been accused of living in sin before. Just goes to show how brainwashed people can be.

Tomorrow we walk 22kms. And it’s going to be colder and wetter. Hope my body can handle it.

here is Mike’s blog with route:

Www.wheresmike.co.uk

St Jean Pied de Port to Orrison

We mucked about in SJPP buying some last minute stuff. A tiny pocket knife with scissors, some paracetamol, tissues, and snacks.

We began our ascent up the Pyranees at 10.30am. The red and white signs of the GR65 welcomed back. We’d forgotten that the French route we did last year continues on to Ronsavalles.

We wondered a number of times if we were on the right route. We’d been told it was a busy path but we were the only ones walking it, no other walkers in sight the entire way !

It was a steady slog uphill, mostly on roads. We both felt pretty good despite having done no training, and having a cold.

We arrived at Orrison just after 1pm with stunning views over the mountains.

I would think I was on top of the world if I didn’t know about the 17 kms that we have to walk to the summit tomorrow. Eeek.

A lady was walking with her dog, but had not been allowed to stay in any of the albegues (hostels), so she has been sleeping rough, under tables, witb a tarp. We are unsure if she even has a tent.

We had a communal dinner that evening with people from around the world. I was the only kiwi and Mike was the only Pom. There were people from Canada, USA, Wales, Sweden, Mexico and South Africa.

It was a fun night with far too much red wine.

Tomorrow we walk 17km, most of it uphill.

Bayonne to St Jean Pied de Port

Last night I had a terrible headache due to my cold. I rummaged around in my first aid kit, which has everything in it except for paracetamol. I’d packed ibuprofen by accident and i can’t take that stuff! Note for next time. Don’t pack while jet lagged.

We’d set our alarms for 5.45am and sprung out of bed. Breakfast wasn’t until 7am but we’d arranged it for 6.30am. But the night staff didn’t pass this on to the day staff.

We were itching and raring to go, but we really wanted food first. While we waited we helped ourselves to some coffee, yoghurts, and juice.

Finally, just before 7am, they brought out food. We had to leave at 7 to catch our train, but the sight of muesli, pastries, meats and cheeses was too much to ignore.

So we spend another ten minutes scoffing and by the time we were ready to leave, we were late.

We sprinted to the train station, barely noticing the bridge reflecting on the calm water, or the brilliant day unfolding in front of us.

My mind was too busy working on backup plans for if we missed our train. Taxi? Bus? Maybe that pilgrim shuttle if I can find it online?

Mike navigated us to the station without getting lost, yay, and with a few minutes to spare.

But we had an e-ticket. The barriers don’t accept e-tickets. The was no one in the office to ask so we panicked trying to find out how to convert it to a ticket the machine could read. There weren’t even any barriers we could jump

.I thought we could ask someone to let us onto the platform. As i went to ask, the platform doors opened. Voila! We didn’t need a ticket after all. You’d think after a week our jetlag might have passed!

Anyway, we made it and are sitting on the train as I type.

We’ve just arrived in St Jean Pied de Port. Now to climb the Pyranees! Stay tuned!

Today I woke up with a stinking cold. Typical.

We left at 7.30am to drive to Stansted airport and arrived at 10am as no traffic on the M25.

We landed in Biarittz and walked Bayonne – our first walk with our backpacks on! We stopped at Decathlon and bought some walking poles.

Now we are sitting on the 9th floor of our hotel eating and drinking free refreshments.

Tomorrow we catch the train to SJPP.

Here’s a photo of our plane for Eddie.