Auckland to LA to London to Bournemouth

On Saturday morning we woke up early and headed to the Frankton Pharmacy for our pre-departure covid tests. We’d been isolating for two weeks prior to this, so were confident we’d be fine. There was still that sliver of anticipation though, especially since I’d gotten a cold during our isolation.

The pre-departure test is a RAT test and it costs $49 each. They took us into a back room and watched while we performed the test on ourselves. Then we had to wait 15 minutes for a negative result, then another 15 minutes for the paper work. Thankfully all was good, and headed back home to get ready for departure.

Sister Jenny picked us up at 12.30, and we were at the airport by 2pm, six hours before our flight was due to depart. But, we’d rather be sitting around at the airport than at home twiddling our thumbs in a constant state of apprehension.

We arrived at the check-in counter and there were no other customers there, just us and one lady waiting to check us in. We’d been unable to check-in online due to the complex list of things we had to do before flying.

The lady said there was a problem with my British passport, there was no ESTA on it. An ESTA is an online visa for the USA. Mike definitely did this about a month ago, so we were worried why it wasn’t showing up. We showed her my NZ passport, and this did have an ESTA on it, although we thought the two passports were linked. No problem though, I’d just have to fly into the US with my kiwi passport and into the UK on my British one. We’ll see if it causes problems later on. I hope not.

We arrived at the lounge and settled into our seats with a view of the planes and the runway. It’s my first time flying without drinking alcohol so I was apprehensive as to how I would go. I went to the drinks bar in the lounge and there were loads of alcoholic beverages. Beer, wine, champagne, spirits, a few soft drinks. But I just wanted water. I hunted high and low, but no bottled water. Then I saw a queue of people and wondered what was so exciting to be queuing up for.

I followed the long line to the source of their interest and can you guess what it was? Coffee? No, the coffee counter was in a different place. Cocktails? No, those were served at the coffee place. You’ll probably never guess so I’m just going to tell you. They were lining up for the… wait for it … haha, I can feel your anticipation… It was…. You are not going to believe this… the water fountain! Unbelievable, hundreds of bottles of alcohol and one poxy water fountain to fill up from!

Anyway, I grabbed some egg sandwiches and a glass of water, grateful I wasn’t paying for the lounge experience (we got a free lounge pass due to having silver status).

While we waited for our flight, we watched a series we’ve been following on Prime, took a time lapse of the planes landing and taking off, had some venison stew and a yummy coffee. But nobody really wants to hear about that stuff.

We headed off to the gate, way to early, but the lounge had emptied out so we thought we better. As well as that, we’re travelling with carry-on luggage only, so the plane would have no problem leaving without us. I doubt they’d even bother to call our names. Anyway, we arrived at the gate and there were hundreds of people all crammed into one spot, waiting to board. Feeling claustropobic, I headed straight past them and waited at an adjacent gate that was empty. We were both a bit apprehensive about flying post pandemic.

Eventually we got on board, and all was good. We managed to get some sleep, and I had no urge to drink, so that was good. We landed at LA airport, and the immigration queue was the best I’d seen it in ages. We only had two hours to catch our connecting flight, and in the past we’ve spent two hours just getting through immigration. But Air New Zealand surely wouldn’t schedule a flight with an impossible connection time.

The man on immigration looked serious and without humour. I asked him to check my British passport for an esta, but he took my NZ passport and allowed me entry on that one. I said I needed to fly to the UK on my British passport and with a stern look on his face he said that I should get rid of one of my passports. He must’ve seen the look of horror on my face and he smiled and told me he was just joking. And with that, he went from scary man in immigration, to kind funny man you might like to take home to your mother.

We cleared immigration and floundered about trying to find out where to go. We were so glad we’d travelled with carry-on baggage only, otherwise we’d have had to go to baggage claim to collect our bags, then check them through again.

There was a reasonable queue through security before we got a chance to pile all our stuff onto the conveyer belt. All was good until Mike couldn’t find his bum bag. My immediate thought was someone had taken it by mistake. It took a while to track down a security staff member. I remembered bum-bags are called fanny packs in the US but I couldn’t bring myself to use that word, knowing it has a different meaning in NZ. He looked at me blankly when I said bum-bag, so I said it, the F word and he knew exactly what I was talking about.

He went off to look for our fanny pack and after a while he brought us two fanny packs, neither of which belonged to us. After a bit of waiting around, Mike finally got it back. All good.

LA airport was buzzing. Shops were open, people eating in restaurants, nobody wearing masks. It was a stark contrast to Auckland airport where all the shops were closed and the only people we saw were crowded at their gates.

Our next task was to find our gate number. Most airports have screens dotted around the place with the departure times and gates, but could we find them? No. And we looked everywhere! We flagged down an official who pointed up. We both looked in the direction he was pointing and there it was, a giant screen about 50 feet wide. Who would’ve thought to look up there!

We found our gate and sat in a quiet spot away from all the people. I checked our boarding passes to see if we had a window seat. Upon closer inspection, we had no seat numbers, just the letters GTE. I assumed this meant our seat would be allocated at the gate, but they hadn’t mentioned this at Auckland airport where our boarding passes were issued.

I went up to the gate and waited in line. While I was waiting, a sign glared at me. It basically said that they overbook flights and were saying you would get compensation if you gave up your seat. This was an ominous sign.

I handed over my boarding passes to the lady at the gate. She said, “You got through early, most people from your flight get held up through immigration and don’t make this flight.”

I was thanking the fact we had carry on luggage for our speedy check through process while she checked her computer. Then she said, “Premium economy is full. They overbook the flights as normally your flight doesn’t make it through.” Thanks Air New Zealand for telling us this.

“Ok, so what happens now.”

“I’ll check and see if anyone is volunteering their seats.”

I tapped my fingers on the counter as she made a phone call. She hung up. “No one is answering, I’ll try again in a minute.”

She continued to tap on her screen. “I can see there are some seats which have not yet been allocated. I’ll just see if it’s anyone from your flight. At this stage it’s a matter of first-in-first-served.”

Again, I thanked our foresight of bringing carry-on only. She picked up the phone again and this time someone answered and I listened to the one-sided conversation. I hadn’t realised I was holding my breath when she hung up and took two boarding passes off the printer. Are those for us? I asked myself.

They were. As she handed us the boarding passes, she said we got the last two seats. Phew.

The Virgin atlantic flight was ok, but nowhere near as good as AirNZ. Thankfully it was a shorter flight, but neither of us managed to sleep very well.

We landed at Heathrow airport at 9:40am half an hour early, had a speedy trip through the smart gates at Heathrow, and made our way through the underground maze to the central bus station. Our bus was booked for 12:45pm, but we were at the bus stop by 10.30am and were thankfully able to get the 11am bus. It took 3 hours to get to Bournemouth, but was a stress free way to travel and we’ll probably do this again in future.

Then it was just a 20 minute walk to Nick and Ems place. They were all our at Brownsea island for the day, so we let ourselves in, had a shower, then promptly fell asleep exhausted.

That’s it, time for bed, see you tomorrow!

Going on Holiday

This is a practice post to see if I can still write blogs from my phone.

Not long now until we get on an aeroplane and fly off to the other side of the world. But a few things need to happen first.

1. Clean and tidy our house. As usual we leave this job until the last minute because no sooner than it’s tidied, we make another mess.

2. Get a negative COVID test. We’ve been isolating for the last 2 weeks, so we should be good here.

3. Pack our bags. We’ve managed to fit our stuff into carry on luggage. Mike is already packed and I am almost packed.

That’s it I think. Practice blog done.

Climbing Mt Te Aroha

A crazy last minute idea from sister Lynda found us climbing Mt Te Aroha.

Our fitness had dwindled away over the winter months to be replaced by rolls of belly fat and wasting muscle. But still, that didn’t stop us from attempting to climb to the summit.

We started out quite fast, eager to get to the top. Five minutes in, my heart pounded and I thought I might faint.

“I’m going to stop and take lots of footage,” I said to Mike. Really, that was code speak for, I’m going to stop and take lots of rests.

Brother John, Nephew Quinn, and Sister Lynda had left us in their dust, striding their way to the top.

Many other day walkers overtook us, clearly thinking we would never make it. They were probably right.

About 45 minutes in, we made it to a viewpoint, where sister Lynda waited for us. The township of Te Aroha sprawled out below us, colourful roof tops dotting the Hauraki Plains. We munched on an egg sandwich whilst admiring the view.

“I’m not sure I’m going to make it to the top,” said Sister Lynda.

“Don’t worry, we don’t think we will either. I’m knackered already and we’re not even halfway!”

We decided to keep walking until we’d had enough.

Sister Lynda headed off, while we chatted to a few others that had stopped at the view point. None of them were continuing. This was the end of their day hike.

Mike and I headed off in silence. Without the other walkers around us, the bush was eerily silent, with only the occasional chirp of a bird.

I continued to take regular “camera shots” while we climbed our way up.

Then the path got steeper. I’ve found in the past that it is hard to slow yourself down, so I’ve learned a few tricks. I said to Mike. “Let’s walk for ten minutes and take a 30 second break.”

Thirty seconds later. “Scrap that. Let’s walk for 30 seconds and take a ten minute break.”

With our newly formed tactic, we struggled on.

A short while later we stumbled upon Lynda who was having a rest.

“I’m probably not going to go to the top,” she said.

“Don’t worry, nor are we. Why don’t we just walk until we’ve had enough?” I said.

Lynda agreed and we continued on, stopping to take many “camera shots.

About two hours into the walk, we stopped for a decent sized lunch break. While we were sitting on a rock admiring the view, brother John texted to say that he and Quinn were at the top already. Wow, those two are machines!

We headed off again, still in an uphill direction. At this stage, nobody wanted to give up. Heck, we’d come this far, why would we?

I kept looking out for the tell-tale broadcasting tower but couldn’t see it, my frustration increasing not knowing how far we had to go.

We stopped again, but this time for a “Vlogging break.” I pulled out my GoPro and started rambling about something when Mike said, “Look in front of you.”

I turned, took two steps forward, and there in all its glory sitting proud upon the mountain was the Eiffel Towers ugly cousin.

Excitement bubbled out of my mouth. “That’s where we’re going Mike. Look! Look! That’s where we’re going. Look!”

“I know, I just told you that.”

From that point on we knew we would make it to the top. We scrambled over rocks, pulling ourselves up by tree roots, the occasional glimpse of the Hauraki Plains egging us on.

Then I stepped out of the bush and into a clearing, where the broadcasting tower loomed over me.

We’d made it and were rewarded with 360 degree views over the Hauraki Plains, Mt Ruapehu, and out to the ocean.

None of us wanted to scramble down the way we’d come up, so we decided to take the road route down. This was not a good idea.

Having seen that it was 1.5 hours back to the domain, we figured it would be a little longer via the road, maybe an extra 30 minutes?

After we’d been walking downhill for two hours, I wondered why we were still in the clouds. It seemed we still had a long way to go.

My calf muscles burned and my knee ached. I tried walking downhill backwards, but it was taking too long.

Jo: “Are we there yet?”

Mike: Silence. He was having his own personal battle behind me.

We caught up with sister Lynda and Quinn, and she said, “Do you want the good news or the bad news?’

“Gawd, we’re lost aren’t we!”

“No, that’s the good news. The bad news is there’s two more hours to go to get back to the Domain.”

“Arrrrgggghhhhh.” Actually, those weren’t my exact words, but we’re keeping this blog clean.

Had there been an option to call a cab, I definitely would have done it, but we pushed on, because we had to. I sang songs, something I always do when I’m struggling. That, and dreaming of an ice cold beer at the end.

But we made it. It took us seven hours, up and down, but we made it! And even though it was hard work, it was easier than some days we had on camino. Some of those days I was in so much agony I had to limp into camp. So, we must be fitter than we realised.

So, all in all, a great day out. Highly recommend it, but maybe come back down the same way.

Day 35 – Last day

This morning we got up early and walked to the airport. I can now say, apart from taxing on the runway, I have crossed Spain under my own steam (if that makes sense).

At the airport we met Indiana Jones and one of his harem, and Irish Dave was there too. Irish Dave was the guy who originally told us about Indiana and how he’d met a girl and was doing Camino twice.

Anyway, they were all on our flight to Gatwick today.

We arrived in Bournemouth safely and are currently drinking wine in the back yard.

See you tomorrow.

I’m seeing a pattern here. My phone and fleece are also orange:

Day 34 – Looks like we made it

Rua to Santiago – 31kms

Today started out like any other day. We got up, we walked, we stopped for breakfast, we met some “friends” we met weeks ago but keep bumping into them.

We saw Climate Change guy. I don’t think I’ve mentioned him, but we met him a week or so ago when he was sitting with Close Talker.

Climate Change guy goes around picking up people’s rubbish, kinda like a womble. We asked him what his climate change group does and he told us how they protested in London.

“Did that change anything,’ I asked.

“Yes, we stopped traffic in central London.”

“But… did it change anything?”

“Yes, they declared a climate emergency.”

Meanwhile the govt are like, “we need to get traffic moving, let’s tell them we’ll think about it.”

Still, good on the guy for doing something.

With all the masses heading to Santiago, I googled what all the fuss is about.

It’s all about St James (also known as St Jacque in France and St Iago in Spain. Sant Iago… get it?)

Anyway the story goes: St James was a disciple of Jesus, and he came to Spain to spread the word. When he went back home, King Herod chopped off his head.

So, his followers carted his remains back to Spain. Not knowing where to bury him, they let the Ox that was carting him decide. When the Ox lay down to rest the decision was made. Now a big cathedral sits there.

Anyway, you’re probably itching to hear about our last day.

We’d booked a hotel by the airport as it was a lot cheaper, so we checked in, had a shower and dropped off our bags. They had a free shuttle to take us into Santiago centre, but we thought we should walk it.

We arrived at the cathedral, had the obligatory photo shot, then wandered for a bit. As we wandered passed a bar, all this cheering came at us. It was some Germans we’ve been meeting on and off. So we stopped for a drink with them.

Then we went for some gelato, then we walked back to the hotel.

That’s it.

Tomorrow morning we walk to the airport.

Day 33

Arzua to Rua – 20 kms

This morning we went down to breakfast and it smelled like a locker room. All the walkers from Sarria had not washed their clothes overnight. It stunk.

Good brekky though, fresh fruit, yoghurt, and heaps of other stuff. Oh, and of course there was cheese.

It was an easy 20km walk today. We started late and took it slow.

Not much to say. The people are still there. The wooded trails are still there.

We met a Chinese lady we saw in Astorga. I remember watching her walk and she looked so elegant. But she was carrying next to nothing. I assumed she was having her stuff transported, but she was carrying her towel and sleeping bag. It didn’t make sense.

Then we met her today, I told her we’d seen her in Astorga. She told us the airline had lost her bag on the way over and she’d had to buy new stuff. As a result, she decided she didn’t need a lot of stuff, and was travelling light. Super light.

Here she is, an inspiration for sure.

Only 21 kms to Santiago tomorrow. Yay.

Day 32 – Are we there yet?

Palas de Rei to Arzua – 30kms

Today was a big 30 km day in the heat. I had set the alarm for 5.30am to get an early start and avoid the crowds.

After two vending machine coffees and some yoghurt cereal stuff we bought the night before, we were out the door at 6.15am.

I thought we were mad, the sun wasn’t even up yet. Surely nobody else would be up this early.

We were surprised that the cafes were already open and people were queuing up for breakfast. Thankfully we’d had ours and we were still ahead of the rush.

As we left the town, I looked behind me, and about 60 people were following us. WTF?

Looks like every one had the same idea.

It was a nicer walk today, through forests and the countryside. We even managed to escape the crowds for a bit. I never thought the sound of our footsteps crunching on gravel could be so peaceful.

I’m not sure what it is about the Spanish people. They speak so loud and it is constant, like verbal diarrhoea. They never shut up. And the language sounds so ugly to me.

Perhaps I’m being harsh, but it’s such a contrast the the previous 30 days where most people were respectful of each other and their surroundings.

We were glad we’d left early as we’d done the first 15kms by 10.30am, before the heat. Unfortunately it heated up after that, and the final 15kms were hard work with no breeze and little shade.

I was hoping to finish the Camino pain free but the top of my foot has started hurting. I think it’s due to overuse.

We have realised we haven’t had a rest day since Burgos, over 550kms ago, and it’s starting to show in both of us.

Only two more days of walking until we reach Santiago. Before now the walk was about the journey, taking each day as it comes, taking our time with no destination in mind.

Now in the last week it’s become about the destination. We are so close to Santiago that it’s become a challenge to get there.

We are in Arzua tonight. A lot of people are limping, all of them having started in Sarria. It just goes to show, whether you’re walking 100kms or 800kms, it’s still hard work.

We’ve met a few people we know along the way, and they are still winging it with accommodation and are having no problem. I think if you don’t stay in the main towns, accommodation is no problem.

We met up with army guy again, the one walking with a broken foot. He’s picked up some pilgrims and were planning on walking 56 kms to 1aSantiago today.

We also found out he has five kids. So…he’s been in the army, got a degree, travelled for four years, and has five daughters. Did I mention he is only 28? Sounds legit to me.

Anyway, we had the most amazing pilgrim menu. The beef was oh so yummy and the best I’ve eaten yet. Hopefully the protein will repair our muscles for another day.

Leaving town early:

Day 31 – The Sound of Cackle.

Portomarin to Palas de Rei – 26 kms

We had planned to get away early this morning but that didn’t happen. The hotel had free breakfast, but not until 7am, so it was 7.45 by the time we got away, along with all the hoards of people. We have finally found them.

The day was spent walking surrounded by a constant cackle; a cocophany of languages being spoken all around us. It was awful.

So I plugged in my headphones and tuned them all out and it was much better.

I can’t understand why so many people choose to do only the last 100kms to Santiago. If I only wanted to walk 100kms, I’d choose a different, quieter route.

Today I felt like I was part of a big herd of cattle or sheep, and it’s really not me. But we are so close to Santiago where our flight leaves from that I have no interest in catching a bus now.

So I guess we have to suck it up, bellow baaaa, and get on with it.

We have a big day tomorrow, so we’re going to leave early and hopefully avoid all the people.

Day 30 – Lost in Translation

Sarria to Pontmarin – 26 kms

We’d been warned about Sarria and how bus loads of walkers arrive in their shiny fresh clothes, ready to walk the final 100kms to Santiago. When we arrived yesterday we saw nobody.

When we checked into our hotel. Nobody. It was like we’d arrived in a ghost town.

I thought the receptionist had said breakfast was at 9am and cost 7 euro. That’s too expensive and too late.

So when we were ready to leave this morning at 8.30am, we were surprised at everyone sitting down eating brekky.

Where did all the people come from? When did they arrive? And what’s with all the suitcases in reception? It was like we’d walked into an alternate universe.

The receptionist had meant breakfast was from 7-9 and cost 4 euros. Doh. So we ate before we left.

We left Sarria, still no other walkers in sight. We ran into the English guy we’ve been running into who met a girl and is doing the camino for the second time this year. He was having breakfast with his harem.

At dinner in Fonfria a couple of nights ago, he had two women fawning all over him. I asked Mike what they saw in him. He didn’t know.

Then the next morning at breakfast Mike realised what it was. He was dressed like Indiana Jones, complete with satchel bag (no backpack). So we’ve nicknamed him Indiana.

They’ve been having trouble finding accommodation on this stretch. Thankfully sister Lynda warned us and we’ve booked ahead.

That’s Indiana on the left there, with his harem.

There haven’t been that many people on the path, but certainly more than the last 30 days, and a lot of new fresh people. It’s nice having more people to chat to.

The worst traffic we encountered today was a herd of cows we had to stop for. They had big horns and passed real close. I was a little scared.

Then one started piggy backing another and I thought they were going to hit me, so I stepped back and into a shrub of stingy nettles. Ouch!

As we headed into the forest the sound of bagpipes bellowed from below. Was this another aural mirage?

Five minutes later a man emerged from the forest on a motorbike chased by a herd of cows. Okay, that’s an exaggeration, but the farmer told him to leave as they were moving the cows up the road.

Anyway, motorbike man morphed into bagpipe man. He parked his bike, whipped out his pipes and started playing. It was quite surreal.

Bagpipe man here:

The rest of the day involved stopping for lunch, catching up with the German who runs up hills, and his Dad, and eating magnums.

We met an English guy who mentioned at least four times how he was in the army. Apparently he is walking on a broken foot but the army has taught him to ignore the pain. Both Mike and I thought he was full of shit.

We are now at our hotel, drinking beer and writing our blogs.

The end.

Oh, and we met up with a guy we met weeks ago. That was exciting.

The end.

Day 29 – Pop goes the Weasel

Fonfria to Sarria – 28 kms

Today was a long 9 hour walk to Sarria.

It was a beautiful morning as we left our mountain lodging at Fonfria. We were the last to leave as usual and had the path to ourselves. A weasel ran across the path in front of us and I didn’t scream.

It was really neat being above the clouds this morning, then descending down into them.

Most of the day was very scenic, winding through forest tracks and small towns smelling of cow shit.

After a long walk we stumbled upon an oasis in the middle of nowhere. Sofas and fruit, bread and biscuits and juices.

After a break at the hippy place, it seemed a long way before there was anywhere else to stop. After a couple of hours we heard music drifting up the mountain. Proud Mary was playing.

‘Is that a live band?’ I asked Mike.

‘I dunno.’

We kept on walking hoping all would be revealed around the next corner. Nope. Still no sign of the source of the music.

Half and hour later and the anticipation is killing us. We can hear them but we can’t see them. Is it an aural mirage? Is that even a thing?

Finally, we found them. In a small village a band was playing so we stopped and had a drink and listened to them.

The rest of the day dragged a bit and we were thankful to arrive in Sarria at 5pm. But what a shithole!

A quick shower and wash of our clothes, we went out in search of dinner.

3 beers later and 3 different places and no sign of a pilgrim dinner anywhere. We ended up with second rate tapas, not ideal after a long day.

Kinda ruined my day.