Cornfields and badlands

Today we stopped at the worlds largest ball of popcorn. It was behind glass and a little underwhelming. But there was a cool old fashioned village there to look around.

The rest of the day was spent driving through the corn fields of Iowa. When we got to Sioux City it became really hazy. We thought it may have been smog but it’s more likely from the Canadian wildfires.

We drove through Nebraska and the scenery became more rolling hills and less cornfields. Then we crossed into South Dakota and the badlands began, like a lunar landscape.

It was 6pm by the time we got to a fuel stop just outside the badlands national park. We were both really hot and bothered. We’d been driving in 40 degree heat all day, with the sun streaming into our windscreen all afternoon.

We had a little break in the air conditioned gas station, had a free coffee, then decided to continue into the national park even though the sun would still be setting.

What a great decision this was. The sun setting over the badlands was a magical sight, the different layers and colours coming to life.

Then we had to drive 40 minutes to the boondocking site I’d read about. It’s free camping overlooking the badlands but just outside of the national park.

We passed two campgrounds on the way there, but they looked crowded and horrible. So we continued on in the dark, putting our trust in Google to get us there.

After 40 mins the road turned off to a rutted gravel path and we drove in it. Caravans and campervans of all shapes and sizes lined the edge. We drove to the end and found a spot, careful not to drive off the edge.

There was a super moon up, a blue moon and there was plenty of light from that.

We were both excited to see what we would wake up to in the morning.

Worlds largest truck stop

We stayed 16 hours at the world’s largest truck stop! It was really cool, a big shop with everything you could imagine for sale. Even jandals shaped like fish!

We had a good night sleep and browsed the truck museum this morning, which had trucks dating back to 1915. It was really cool, my kind of museum.

We were back on the road at 10.30am and are off the freeways again and heading for South Dakota.

It was a fairly boring day of driving with lots of corn fields. Field of dreams was filmed around this area but we didn’t bother going to the movie set location as I’ve never seen it. I tried to watch it once but it was the boringest thing I’d ever seen.

Today we saw a fatal motorcycle accident which was pretty sobering and dropped our mood considerably. We didn’t see it happen thankfully, probably due to me taking a toilet break. But it had just happened and a guy was bringing out the plastic sheet to cover him.

Tonight we are camped at a camping ground in sacs city, which has a population of about 2000, so not really a city. It’s only $17 a night and it was nice to have a shower.

Indiana dunes

We had a nice quiet nice parked outside the visitor centre michigan city. I admit I was a little worried about the close proximity to Chicago, but apparently its a safe town. We’d met a few people who have moved here from Chicago to escape the violence there. So we felt quite safe parked up overnight, but driving out today was a different story. More about that later.

This morning we explored the Indiana dunes national park. It’s an interesting one as it’s not a contiguous area, having industrial parts in amongst it. But they created the national park to protect it from future development.

Indiana dunes has a whole lot of white sandy beaches on the edge of Lake Michigan, and it really is like being at the beach. We could see the Chicago skyline in the haze in the distance.

There’s a big sand dune which is on the move, trampling big trees in its path, moving 4feet a year.

There were also some futuristic houses built in the 1930s which had been placed there from a trade fair in Chicago. The houses were ahead of their time with dishwashers, automatic garage doors and one was solar heated. They thought in the future everyone would have their own plane, and one house had its own hangar. It’s crazy considering most people didn’t even have cars back then.

Around 2pm we continued on, and found ourselves in the slums of south Chicago. I really didn’t feel safe so we decided to swallow our pride and drive on freeways, at least until we left Chicago behind.

So the rest of the day was spent on boring motorway driving.

Tonight we’re camping at the largest truck stop in the world! And it’s free! And there’s a cool museum we will explo

Since we left our housesit we haven’t paid for camping so we’re slowly recouping our costs of solar panels and batteries. As well as that, it’s just so convenient to stop at these free places without needing electricity. So far, so good.

Heading west

We had a quiet night at the rest stop and were able to get some laundry done this morning before heading off.

We weren’t sure how much the toll road was going to cost us and we’re pleasantly surprised is was only $1.75. Money well spent to get a shower, laundry and sleep done.

We’re continuing our drive west. We have about 4000 miles (6300 kms) to travel on the route we’ve chosen to Las Vegas where we’ll be storing our campervan when we head back to nz.

We passed a classic car meetup and stopped and browsed around the neat old cars. We almost though about parking Rodger in amongst them.

The rest of the day was spent driving through Ohio and Indiana. There was lots of farmland and it was cool seeing all the Amish out and about in their Sunday best.

There wasn’t much to do along this route so we thought it best to make up some miles.

We stopped at 6pm at a casino in south bend which had free overnight parking. It was a nice new casino with a no smoking rule, and I think they were pumping oxygen in as we both came out feeling really refreshed.

The sun was still high in the sky and it seemed too early to stop. Then I realised we would be gaining an hour today as we’re heading west. So we continued on.

We arrived at another casino on Michigan city but neither of us liked the idea of staying there. It probably would have been fine as they have security patrolling every hour, but it’s best to listen to gut instinct.

We then tried the national park at Indiana dunes but it was fully booked. But the ranger said we could park at the visitor centre for free.

But first we headed to Lake Michigan where there is a distant view of the Chicago skyline and the sun starting to set.

We were the only ones at the visitor centre to start with, but other campervans arrived to stay the night. We had a quiet nights rest.

Cuyahoga National Park

We had another nice quiet sleep in the casino carpark. I much prefer it to a crowded camping ground, and the fact it’s free is a bonus.

Today we spent the day exploring the Cuyahoga np in Ohio. We started with a 2.5 hour bike ride along a rail trail. It was a nice flat ride alongside a river. We saw a giant turtle with barnacles on it.

After the ride we visited a waterfall and did a rocky walk.

By the time we’d finished it was 6pm and we still needed to find somewhere to sleep. I’d seen a free place on our iOverlander app with free overnight parking, free showers, and toilets and Burger King open 24 hours. There was a catch though. We’d have to drive on a toll road to get there.

After our bike ride we were both hot and sticky and the thought of a shower won us over. We swallowed our pride and drove on the toll road. We’ve done such a good job of avoiding motorways so far, but thankfully it was only about 5 minutes on the toll before we arrived at the services.

We headed straight for the showers then had Pizza Hut for dinner.

The facilities here are better than some $60 campgrounds. And quieter too!

We’ll see how much the toll was tomorrow when we exit the motorway.

Letchworth canyon state park

We had a nice sleep in the casino carpark. It was just a 2hour drive this morning to the Letchworth state park, also known as the Grand Canyon of the east.

It was a rainy ole day, but it mostly stopped by the time we got to Letchworth and we were able to explore. There was a drive through the park with overlooks and sheer cliffs dropping into the canyon below. At the end we’re a couple of waterfalls.

We spent most of the day exploring then headed to another casino carpark for the night.

We tried to get a meal in the casino but it was an hours wait being a Friday night. And the casino stunk of cigarette smoke. They still allow smoking in Pennsylvania.

We headed for the over night parking lot which was away from the casino. It was very quiet, and we had another nice night sleep.

On the road again

We were so excited to get on the road again. Housesitting is great for a little rest and to get things done on the van. I also managed to get some videos finished but not as much as I would have liked. 3 days of “flu” didn’t help.

Today was a big driving day. The weather was yuck so we just fast forwarded towards letchworth state park, which is known as the Grand Canyon on the east.

It would take us 6 hours to get there taking motorways, or 9 hours avoiding them. Guess which option we chose?

I’ll give you a minute, let us know if you guessed correctly.

Today we saw a sign that got me very excited. Hamilton to the left, morrinsville straight ahead. I mean, what are the odds of that? There was even a cow sign in morrinsville.

We also drove through some English towns, Leeds, Norfolk, and even drove through Scotland and Ireland! This part of the country seems to be having an identity crisis!

We drove through many charming villages, some with massive houses.

We made a couple of stops. Walmart for a warmer blanket and some supplies, and a coffee pit stop beside an ice skating rink! Okay, at this time of year it’s just a lake, but still cool to think they ice skate on it in winter.

There were a few free places to stop overnight and we chose the del lago casino and resort. It was 6pm by the time we stopped so that was about 10 hours travelling fort the day. We had a look inside the casino but weren’t tempted. The restaurants looked bland too so we opted for a salad wrap back in the van.

We are still about 2 hours from the letchworth state park.

Connecticut Update

Just a few more days of our housesit to go and we’ve really enjoyed it here.

Mike has put extra house batteries in so we now have 200amh, when before we only had 64. so more than 3 x as much. We then decided we needed more solar to charge such a big power bank so we ordered two more 100w solar panels, so we now have 400w of solar on the roof.

Our housesitting hosts came back from Scotland for a couple of days, so we headed off to explore the area. We went to Mystic, a quaint seaside town, and also to Rhode Island, which isn’t actually an island. We ate traditional Connecticut food such as clam cakes, seafood chowder, and some deep fried clams.

When we got back to our housesit, Chris had prepared a spread of New England delicacies for us to try. Steamers were first on the menu. They are basically pipi’s which are steamed open, then dipped in a delicious broth, where you jiggle it a bit to get the sand out, then dipped into melted butter. Delicious.

We also had quahogs, which is mix of minced clam, chorizo, breadcrumbs, some spices, served in a half clam shell. They were delicious and are common in the region.

For the main course we had home grown pork chops, local corn, roasted veggies from the garden and caramelised onion. We were very spoilt.

Over the last 3 days we’ve both been feeling tired with headaches and body aches. We’d wonder if our hosts had brought a bug back on their flight from Scotland. We both felt terrible, like a mild flu. I wondered if I’d had an unseen tick on me and was having a reaction to that, the aches in unusual places, and not letting up. Mike has just finished his antibiotics and wondered if it was something to do with that.

Other than extreme tiredness and aches, we felt fine, so wondered how long these symptoms were going to last.

As we were drinking our second cup of coffee this morning, we discovered the source of our flu-like symptoms.

Mike mentioned how he almost picked up the wrong coffee in the supermarket, saying the packaging is identical, just one different word on it. I thought I better check the packet, knowing mikes close-up eyesight isn’t great. I picked up the coffee packet and the source of our pain was revealed…

We’d been drinking decaf for the last few days!!! We quickly tipped it down the sink, made a proper coffee, and all was right with the world again!

Connecticut Housesit

We’ve found the female equivalent to Buddy! She’s called Naz, and she’s as mad as Buddy, just with longer hair.

Our new housesit it amazing. We are in a grand old house dating back to the 1700s. Benjamin Franklin’s niece, Ann Fuller, built this house in 1743. It still had all the original floorboards and original features. The property is on 60 acres of woodland, and it’s great for walking the dogs.

We have two dogs to look after. Naz, who has unlimited energy, who constantly wants to play and when we go for walks, she darts all over the place. She has a GPS collar so we can keep track of her.

Bella is the older dog of 11 years old and she is a sweetheart. She just plods along on our walks, usually bringing up the rear. Sometimes on a downhill section, she loses control and get’s a run on.

Then there’s the pigs, five of them. We have to feed them twice a day. On our first day we went out at 7.30am to feed them and they were all still fast asleep! I didn’t realise pigs slept in. So we feed them later in the day now, so as not to disturb their sleep.

There are 9 hens and a rooster and they are producing about 8 eggs a day. Way too much to keep up with. Thankfully there is also a never ending supply of zucchini, so we’ve been making zucchini slice. Now we just need a never ending supply of bacon…

We’ve had two magificent days of fine weather, but today is raining and storms and tornadoes are forecast this afternoon. Hopefully we don’t need to use the basement.

We have ordered a whole heap of stuff from Amazon to do some more enhancements to our van. Our house battery is useless and doesn’t keep charge overnight, so when we wake up, there is no power. So with lots of discussions with brother John, we have opted for two 100AH AGM batteries (our current one is only 64 AH) and we needed some extra things to make these work with our current charger. Hopefully they will arrive this week so Mike can get working!

We have also ordered a composting toilet, the same model as we had in Justin. We thought we could make do with the one we have, which flushes into a black tank, but if we leave it a few days it starts to smell. It’s not like NZ where there are free dump stations everywhere. Unless you are staying at a campground, they will charge $25 to dump, and a state park if you can find one, will charge $10 to dump. So it’s really hindering our freedom camping experiences.

So, with the new batteries, and a composting toilet, we should be able to go off-grid for a lot longer and not worry about a smelly tank.

The last few days

I’m a bit behind on blogs so I’ll lump them into one.

Monday

We continued our coastal drive, visiting the town of Gloucester. If really feels like we’re in England with all the English names.

We decided we needed to spend more money in lobster, this time as Bobs lobster shack. This one has a lemon and tarragon sauce and was quite nice.

There was not a lot of choice for camping or even free car parks. Plus we’ve decided to get away from the seaside as it’s just too busy.

We found a campground at Cape Ann, which is near the beach. Except you need to buy a permit to park at the beach, although you can go after 5pm for free. we didn’t bother.You

Tuesday, Wednesday and Thursday

We headed inland and found a nice state park only 45 mins from our housesit. It’s only $7.50 to camp so we’ve stayed here for 3 days.

There are plenty of walks to do but because Mike needs to stay out of the sun we decided to rest. I caught up on some video editing and we tidied the van a bit.

We had a fire in our second night and cooked potatoes, corn and garlic mushrooms on it, followed by marshmallows.

Our last night we went to the Irish pub in town for dinner and it was delicious. We shared a giant pretzel to start which had a hot cheese dip, kinda like fondue.

Mike had fish and chips but the batter was all wrong. They’d put egg in the batter! I had a Gyros with a large Greek salad and it was yummy. we had leftovers.

The great thing about the USA is doggie bags. I’d feel embarrassed asking for one in NZ but here everyone takes their food with them if they can’t finish it. They even ask you if you want a container.

Tomorrow we start our house sit.