Spain so far

Our last few days in France were lovely and hot. We cycled through Biarittz, Saint-Jean-de-Luz and Hendaye was our last town in France.

The only way into Spain was either via a major road or a 150 km detour. We decided to take the main road. It was awful. It was like riding on a motorway. Trucks and cars whizzing by at horrendous speeds. I wasn’t sure we should even be on that road.

We are now cycling (i.e. pushing our bikes up the hills) along the coastal route, well away from the main roads. I’m giving it a minimum of 3 days before I decide to catch the train out of here!

On the positive side the wine is very cheap (as long as you don’t mind it in a carton!). As cyclists we are very excited about 1 litre cartons of wine that only cost 55c. It means it is much lighter to carry than a bottle.

We really need to cut down on our weight if we want to continue in Spain. We checked the panniers today and are carrying approximately 3 kilos in food alone! So we really need to eat some.

We may backtrack to France if the hills and roads get too much for us. It’s not much point carrying on if we can’t cycle up the hills and if we’re not enjoying it. We might look at doing Spain another time on a credit card – which means we pack a credit card, a change of clothes and a toothbrush, and stay in hotels and eat out.

Last night we had our first tapas. They call it Pinchos here in the Basque country. They are laid out on the bar and you nibble while drinking your beer. Some bars have gourmet pinchos, and some have just sardines and olives, or ham on bread. We opted for a bar with gourmet pinchos and they were yummy.

I have uploaded some more photos on facebook.

The Rain is Spain Falls Mainly on our Tent

We have left the wonderful flat cycle paths of France behind and are now in hilly Spain. Our cycle into San Sebastion was on a dual carraigeway – which is like a motorway but worse as they allow cyclists on there. It is only 4 kms to our camp from San Sebastion, but they didn’t tell us it was up a bloody steep hill! We had to push our loaded bikes up 4 kms!

Now we are rained in at a campground after our first night. It is our first day of rain in our 8 weeks of cycling so I guess it’s not too bad. It was too wet to pack up our tent so we decided to have a rest day and caught the bus into San Sebastion. We are currently enjoying a McWifi and fries (MacDonalds has free internet in Europe).

Below are the blogs from the 13th – 18th June.

Day 41 – 13 June 2011

We camped at the base of this massive sand dune. It is the biggest Dune in Europe.

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It was really steep and looked a bit scary to climb so we decided to drink our bottle of red wine before tackling it.

Here’s Mike climbing up:

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And Here’s me at the top:

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Fantastic view up here:

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Climbing down was much more fun

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During the day we also saw a couple of turtles

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Day 42 – 14 June 2011

This was another day of idyllic cycle paths through forests and beaches.

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Day 43 – 15th June 2011

We decided on a rest day today as we were camped beside a lake and the campground was cheap at only 10 euros.

We spent the day doing washing and stocking up on food from the local LIDL (22c beer).

We saw a red squirrel – so cute.

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Day44 – 16th June 2011

Today Mike got his second flat tyre of the trip.

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Our table set ready for dinner. Our panniers make great seats, and the wine is really cheap here.

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day 45 – 17th June 2011

We camped at a really busy campground on the beach. It was full of young surfers and we thought we could be in for a noisy night. It looked like rain so we struggled to make a shelter with a tarp we bought. A couple of girls camping nearby saw us struggling and offered us some poles – which was very helpful.

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Day 46 – 18th June 2011

We did a massive 70 kms today. The weather started out rainy and it drizzled on and off during the day, but it was mostly fine. The weather was looking dodgy so we took a cabin in the caravan park. Of course it didn’t rain.

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Days 35 to 40

Day 35 – La Tremblade to Royan Click to view route

Tuesday June 7, 2011, 38 km (24 miles) – Total so far: 1,178 km (732 miles)

For the month of May we had endless sunny days, and now it is June it seems the sunny day spell has been broken as we woke up to rain again. Bugger – I hate having to pack up a wet tent. Luckily it stopped raining when we got up, but everything was wet. We leave our panniers outside the tent at night as there is no room inside. They are meant to be 100% waterproof, but the rain still manages to seep in through the top a bit. It was bloody freezing too.

We packed up our tent wet and put on our wet weather gear and continued on.Despite the overcast damp morning, It was a pleasant ride through the forest. In the afternoon the sun came out and it was quite warmish.

I couldn’t handle another damp night, plus the tent and my clothes needed drying out as they were starting to smell a bit. We decided to try a cabin at the campground. Only problem was it was a two night minimum. Bugger – we really didn’t want to stay two nights – but the black clouds above forced the decision to stay in a cabin as another damp night in the tent would have been grotty.

Obviously it didn’t rain and we had two days of brilliant sunshine!

Day 36 – Royan

Wednesday June 8, 2011

As we had to book our cabin for 2 day minimum, we took the day off cycling and did a 40 minute walk into Royan.

Most of Royan was bombed during the war so it’s a pretty modern city having been rebuilt in the 1950’s.

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Our little cabin was a bit of luxury, with our own toilet, shower, kitchen etc.

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It was a little chilly so we had our socks and jandals on. Is this wrong?

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day 39 – Saturday 11 june 2011 – 54 kms

We are continuing down the coast of France. Some of the paths were alongside the beach, and some in the forests.

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We saw a bunny on a skateboard

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Day40 – Sunday 12 june 2011 – 36 kms

Today was a wonderful ride through forests.

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We spotted a deer

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and a library in the woods.

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We stayed in a camping ground cabin as it was starting to rain. As usual, once checked in, there was no rain at all.

Bridges and Wetlands

Day 34 – Fouras les Bains to La Tremblade click to view route in new page

Monday June 6, 2011, 53 km (33 miles) – Total so far: 1,140 km (708 miles)

We left Foras and continued on down the coast. We stopped in Rochefort for lunch.

We met a german girl who had cycled up from Morocco and was on her way back home to Hanover in Germany. She had been cycling since December and wanted to know which way to get out of Rochefort. We also got a few tips from her on routes heading south. She said she just knocks on peoples doors and asks if she can camp in their back yard and most of the time they invite her to sleep indoors! Still – pretty amazing to cycle that far on your own.

We left Rochefort and had to cycle over this large bridge.

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Later on in the day we had to cycle over another one!

The rest of the day we cycled through wetlands and spotted some wildlife.

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Just another day in Fouras

Day 33 – Fouras again
Monday June 6, 2011

Yuck. Everything was damp after last nights torrential downpour. The day, however was overcast and not raining. As it was Sunday we decided to have a lazy day. We had Moules Frites (mussells and chips) for lunch and that was the highlight of the day!

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Day 32 – Fouras les Bains

Saturday June 4, 2011

We were due a break so we took the day off to explore Foras.

It was really hot so we made use of the pool – first swim of the trip!

We cooked ourselves some steak with a Poivre sauce andnoodles. simple but yum.

That evening there was a torrential downpour and lightening immediately above us and I slept right through it. Mike said the rain on our tent was so loud that it blocked out my snoring! Probably just as well. I’m not a big fan of thunder storms and would have had glastonbury nightmares of our tent sliding away in a pool of mud.

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Click here for Mikes blog

Sandfly Attack

Day 31 La Rochelle to Fouras les Bains Click to view route in new page

Friday June 3, 2011, 41 km (25 miles) – Total so far: 1,087 km (675 miles)

We cycled from La Rochelle to Fouras-Les-bians. Seriously – this is what it is called!

As we were cycling along swarms of sandflies attacked us. They stuck to our suncreen and got into any open orafice. It was disgusting. Our arms and legs were black with bugs!

We stopped at the supermarket to get some supplies (beer) and were relieved to be inside away from the little beasties. We finished our shopping, starting packing our supplies onto our bikes when a huge swarm attacked us! It was like a sand storm of sand flies. I covered my entire face with my neckerchief and shouted to Mike to “run for cover”. Mike ran for the safety of the supermarket while I quickly locked the bikes and ran for cover also. We were both black with sandflies.

We were too scared to leave the airconditioned comfort of the supermarket. The little brats seem to be attracted to our bright yellow shirts. We sat for a little while, gathering the courage to make a run for it. Once on the bikes and cycling it wasnt too bad. We both had our neckerchiefs covering our faces to minimise swallowage. I didn’t want to camp with these bugs so we tried to find a hotel but they were all full.

As the weather got cooler, they seemed to disappear a little so we ended up camping. We couldn’t handle cooking amongst the swarms so we had a feed of sausages and frites at the campground restaurant.

Kids covered in mud – obviously to stop the sandfly attack.

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Expensive campgrounds

Day 28 – Le Village du Bois de saint Jean to Le Tranche sur mer

Tuesday May 31, 2011, 43 km (27 miles) – Total so far: 983 km (611 miles)

Today was another day of expensive camping grounds, most of them 25 euros plus. One campground quoted us 46 euros just to put up our tent for the night. Luckily we managed to find a basic campground for only 12 euros and we had the place to ourselves!

It’s School Holidays Innit!

Today was a mostly scenic ride alongside the sea, past some more Surfers Paradise style towns. The camping grounds along this have become very expensive – 20 euros plus! All we want to do is put up our tent for the night and move on the next day.

We found a modestly priced camping ground for 16 euros a night, and it was full of British holiday makers! It is the busiest campground we have come across and everybody was British. Apparently it is school holidays so that explains things a bit.

The one good thing about it being a British holiday resort is that the standard of the facilities are excellent. There are separate ladies and mens toilets and showers, the toilets all have seats and each cubicle has toilet paper! It also had a bar that was actually open.

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