Day 4 – Lost Footage

Benson, AZ, to Van Horn, Texas

This morning we looked at our dash cam movies, to see if we could see the model jet from the day before, but the most mysterious thing had happened.

As we were viewing the footage, the video suddenly jumped in time from 10:25:09 to 10:25:32, completely skipping the plane flying by.

Coincidence? I dunno, but it seems a bit weird.

The rest of the day was spent driving across Arizona, and then Texas. The time kept jumping forward on us and we lost two hours today.

Two storms loomed around us, but no whooping on my phone. And we managed to drive between the two of them, so that was lucky.

We are learning not to eat pre-made meals here. Everything is so salty, even the pre-made sandwiches you buy in the supermarket are swimming in salt. I normally love salt. but this is ridiculous.

We stopped in a small town in Texas but still haven’t seen anyone in a cowboy hat.

Big storm ahead of us

Big storm behind us

Multi-layer bridges in El Paso

Day 3 – Pus and Stuff

Jacumba Springs, CA to Benson, Arizona

We got up at 6am to go for a desert walk before it got too hot. By 8am it was too hot, so we called it quits, but still got 2 hours walk in.

We went back to our trailer and I had my favourite chore to do before we left.

Mike has an infected cyst on the back of his neck. In England he saw 3 doctors about it and is now on his third lot of antibiotics.

<Gross part starts here>

Last Friday the cyst burst, and since then it’s been oozing pus. So guess whose job it is to clean it twice a day?

The doctor showed me how to gently squeeze it to help clear the pus out. It’s been a pretty gross experience so far but nothing compared to what I encountered this morning.

The pus had hardened to a consistency of cheese. It was kinda like squeezing putty out of a tube. I had to do my best not to throw up!

Each time I squeezed, I wiped it with a bit of gauze and showed it to Mike, not wanting to experience it alone.

<Gross part ends here>

So sorry for the gross post, but a problem shared and all that.

The rest of the day was spent driving across the Arizona desert which was kinda cool.

A low flying jet buzzed us, but something about it didn’t look right. As it got closer we realised it was tiny.

It looked like a model jet, as it whizzed past at high speed. I couldn’t imagine someone coming all the way out into the desert in 43 degree heat to fly one personally, so we figured it must be some sort of spy plane.

We’ll have to see if we captured it on our dash cam, but the military have probably remotely deleted it already.

The afternoon cruised by in a flurry of weather. Whirlwinds of sand swirled around us, and I feared getting caught in a sand storm, knowing this area was prone to it.

Apparently they can reduce your visibility to 0, and last a couple of hours.

Then the skies got dark and the temperature dropped to 28 degrees. A big brown storm loomed to our right. Sand… storm…

Just then my phone started whooping and vibrating next to me with urgency. What the ???

I grabbed it and there on the screen were the words I feared hearing.

SEVERE THREAT: Dust Storm Warning until 5.45om. Pull over to stay alive.

Eeek,

Then signs appeared on the motorway warning about heavy rain ahead. That should keep down the dust surely!

Then my phone started whooping again.

SEVERE THREAT: Flash Flood Warning until 6.00om. Avoid flood areas.

All I could think was, thank goodness we weren’t travelling through Kansas, we might have ended up in Oz.

Anyway, by the time we got to the part where it was been raining heavily, the roads were already dry and the temperature was back up to 40 degrees. And the dust storm stayed where it was.

Old movie set

4

Day 2 – Where do I look?

Today we were up early to pick up our rental car and were on the road by around 9.30.

We headed down the Pacific coast highway in the direction of San Diego.

We stopped for a pizza on Balbao Island, then continued on to a place Mike had booked for us in the middle of the desert.

Turns out it’s clothing optional and I don’t know which way to look!

Day 1 – Flight to LA

We had barely recovered from Mich and Hannah’s wedding when we packed up our stuff and jetted off to the States.

We left Bournemouth at about 9am, and had absolutely no traffic hold-ups, and arrived at the rental car depot at 11am. But it was good getting there early, as flights to the USA have a 4 hour check-in now.

We were upgraded to business class, yay! So we had a nice sleep and some nice meals.

We arrived at LAX at 7.30pm in the evening and stayed at the Sheraton Gateway hotel, and had some more sleep.

Picking our rental car up in the morning for our road trip. Hope the traffic isn’t too bad getting out of LA.

Day 38 – The Shortcut

Aroue to Ostabat – 28 kms

Today it rained. Hard!

A couple we had been following for days were still having breakfast when we left the gite this morning.

We were all rugged up in our rain gear when 1 km down the track it stopped raining. We stopped, took off all our rain gear, and it started raining again.

It was a brutal walk with lots of uphills, but we knew there was a shortcut coming up.

We hiked it up over a big hill overtaking everyone in sight. When we got back to the road we noticed the couple that were having breakfast when we left were up ahead of us.

How the hell did they get ahead of us, be both exclaimed. Dammit, there must have been another short cut we didn’t know about that missed that big arsed hill.

The rest of the day was spent walking in rain, and stopping every five minutes to check we hadn’t missed the shortcut.

We arrived at a haybarn just as it pelted down with rain. This gave us a half hour break and enough time to establish the short cut which would shave 45 minutes off our time.

So we ignored the walking path signs and put our trust in google maps. As we wandered along the firm tarmac, we congratulated ourselves on avoiding the muddy tracks, and the fact we’d be beating everyone to the gite.

25 minutes later the tarmac ran out and the path turned into a muddy overgrown mess. Dammit Google!

So we backtracked. Instead of shaving 45 minutes off our day, we added 50 minutes to it!

The rest of the day was spent being soaking wet and walking through ankle deep lakes.

We arrived at the gite tired, wet, and grumpy. Oh well, only one more days walking.

Day 36 – The Stingy Nettle

Maslacq to Navarrenx – 21 kms

Another day, another walk. The Pyrenees are getting closer but we still haven’t decided whether we will climb them yet or not.

Today we reunited with my sisters and we drank too much with dinner.

Not much else to report so here is a little story I wrote, based on a true story.

The Stingy Nettle

Once upon a time there was a stingy nettle called Nettie. She lived on the edge of a pilgrim path with her older brothers and sisters.

Nettie spent her days watching her much older siblings having fun by stinging pilgrims as they walked by. Nettie would loved to have done this too, but she was too short.

Then one sunny day, a large bum loomed over Nettie, emitting the most disgusting odour. Then some foul smelling water poured over her and she shrank away from it.

Then her brothers and sisters cried out, Nettie, here’s your chance. Reach up high, do it, do it.

So Nettie did exactly that. She stretched as high as she could and stung that bottom with all her might.

The human jumped up yelling and screaming. Nettie was so elated by the reaction she had caused, she barely had time to register what happened next.

The human turned around and stomped poor nettie until she was just a pile of green mushy pulp.

But at least Nettie died fulfilling her nettle destiny.

The End.

Day 35 – Five Weeks Baby!

Uzan to Maslacq -24 kms

Yep we’ve been walking for 5 weeks now and it sure feels like it.

When we left out gite this morning, thunder clapped all around us as if celebrating that we managed to get away before 8.30am.

Five minutes into the walk it chucked it down with rain. I put my raincoat on followed by my poncho, then it stopped. I walked for the next 90 minutes in my rain gear, too scared to take if off in case it rained again, but of course it stayed dry.

Then I started overheating as we climbed a hill towards the town. There had been no rain for 90 minutes and the skies looked clear. I whipped off my wet weather gear and had just finished stuffing it in my pack when it started pissing down again. Unbelievable!

Tonight we are staying in a nice big house all by ourselves. It’s really nice and has a great outdoor area.

The owners have stocked the fridge with food for us, and a big carafe of rose. Yum yum. And our room has air conditioning!

Big house just for us:

Day 34 – Click Clack

Pimbo to Uzan – 24 kms

A hilly walk today despite the book saying it was flat. I took the gel insert out of my shoe today and foot seemed much happier.

Mike’s sticks were talking saying ‘garlic bread’ over and over as they clicked over the gravel road. Mike reckoned they were saying ice cream but it was definitely garlic bread. Mike agreed with me after a while. Really the sticks were saying ‘click clack’

We stayed at a nice gite with our own room and double bed. We brought out the emergency supplies of macaroni, cheese, and parma ham, and cooked up a feast.

Day 32 – Rest day Aire sur L’adour

Today we had a much needed rest day.

We had a sleep in and late breakfast then wandered around the markets.

I bought some cortisol cream for my bite, then sat and had coffee, followed by lunch down by the river, followed by an afternoon nap.

At dinner we met two young guys we had been passing on the trail over the last two days. They also had a rest day here. Neither of us could speak each others language but we communicated by pointing to our sore bits.

I feel like I have had enough of walking but we’re only about 1 week away from st jean pied de port so feel we should at least make the effort. We’ll see how it goes.

Day 31 – Buggered

Nogaro to Aire sur l’adour – 28km

Another long day today, but there wasn’t much choice of places to stay in a shorter distance.

It was a nice walk for most of the day, through forests and farmland until something bit me on the bum! Well it was on the back of the leg but close to my bum. I flicked it away and it was certainly bigger than a mosquito.

Then it started to hurt, BAD! It reminded me of the horse fly bites I got a few years ago that I am allergic to.

Mike took a look and there was a huge welt on the back of my leg. I popped an antihistsmine quick smart and the pain started receding within the hour. Phew.

The rest of the day flew by, but the last two hours dragged on as we walked along long straight roads in the hot sun, no shade in sight.

Fighter jets roared around the clear blue skies, teasing me. We could hear them, but couldn’t see them as they were too high.

After a while, a much needed tree appeared, so we plonked ouselves down and ate a packet of biscuits. While we sat there, a eurofighter jet buzzed us quite low, giving us our own private airshow. Magic.

We were absolutely shattered by the time we arrived in Aire sur l’adour. We checked into our lovely airconditioned hotel overlooking the river.

After a shower and a little rest, we managed to drag our sad feet into town to meet up with Lynda and Susan, who are staying at a gite.

We are having a rest day in Aire sur l’adour, so not sure when or if we will catch up with Jenny and Lynda again and Susan has headed off on another adventure.

We ate dinner in town and yet again, the restaurant meals don’t live up to the gite meals.