Latitude: 70.86 Berlesvag

Today got off to a slow start. We made good use of the free Wi-Fi at the library to get another video edited and uploaded. It was well past lunch by the time we finally left town. Vadsø had been a lovely little stop, complete with a dump point, a supermarket to restock supplies (chocolate), and a quiet vibe.

Mike proudly picked up some brownies… which turned out to be a brownie mix. Our grasp of the Norwegian language is not as good as we thought. Considering we don’t have an oven in the van, it’s going to be an interesting experiment. But we’ll figure something out. Brownies are a powerful motivator.

We were planning to start heading south through Finland, but I realised there was still one more place to reach on the Arctic Ocean, and I wasn’t quite ready to leave. It was only a four-hour detour (two hours each way), and I’m so glad we took it.

The drive started alongside a fjord, as they all do. Then took us over the mountains, still plenty of snow around. Then the last part of the drive was on a rugged coastal road which was wild and remote.

We drove until about 6 p.m., eventually reaching the little town at the end of the road. We found a perfectly decent camping spot overlooking the Arctic Ocean, but… it just didn’t have the vibe. Neither of us could quite explain why. It wasn’t a bad vibe, just not the vibe. Maybe it was the wind, the cold, or how exposed it felt. So we had dinner there, enjoyed the view for a while, and then decided to drive back, since the road didn’t go any further anyway.

I remembered noticing a spot on the way that looked promising, so we decided to check it out. When we arrived, a narrow gravel road branched off from the main one, and we followed it down, and instantly knew this was the place for the night. I was surprised no one else was camped there; it was stunning. A calm, sheltered bay with barely a breeze, and gentle waves lapping softly at the shore. We even saw a couple of sea otters frolicking about.

Mike went to bed at 10 pm., but I stayed up, eager for another midnight stroll. There’s something magical about the light at that hour;, soft, surreal, and full of intrigue. I read my book until midnight, then set off on my little adventure. Though the sun was tucked behind the mountain, the world remained bathed in an eerie brightness. I walked along the sandy, stony shore to the far end, and when I turned to look back, I saw sunlight shining on the other end of the beach, and snow was glistening on the mountain. Crazy!

So I wandered to the other end of the beach, all the while marvelling at the beauty around me. The hush of gentle waves, the mountains surrounding me and the soft glow of the midnight sun. When I reached the sunlit stretch, I felt the warmth almost instantly. Who would have thought the sun could carry heat after midnight? It feels strange even to say it. I settled on a rock and let the rays warm me as I admired the sun reflecting on the water. It was still cold, just… less so.

It would have been nice to have shared the moment with Mike, but I think the midnight sun is more my thing than his. I just wanted to stay up all night, afraid I might miss something. But I knew I’d pay for it in the morning if I didn’t sleep. So, at 1 a.m., I crawled back into our warm little van (I’d left the heater running) and drifted off to the sound of waves gently lapping at the shore.

Today we had to drive back the same way we came, so we got to experience that amazing road twice! Today it was glorious sunshine and we took our time. We stopped just outside the tunnel to the island village of Vardo. The tunnel looked like a giant sea serpent ready to gobble up unsuspecting traffic. I knew better though. There was no way I was going through this sub-arctic ocean tunnel. So we stopped and admired it, took some photos and moved on.

We stopped at a place called Domen, a mountain where the witches were tried back in the 17th century. This was a bit of a spooky place, because as soon there as we stopped a civil defence type alert came through on our phones. You know, the loud scary siren type sound? They used them a lot during covid. Anyway, we both looked at our phones, relieved that it was just a test, and it wasn’t the witches seeking revenge.

We took a walk out onto the hill, and a strange noise followed us. It was really eerie and hard to explain, but I might have captured it on my GoPro.

We are very close to Russia here. It was quite surreal, sitting, eating our lunch while looking at Russia, just across the border. It’s a pity they require a visa, otherwise we could drive there.

We stopped in the small town of Vadso as we saw they had a library. So we spent the afternoon having a nap and catching up on internetty things, completely wasting the sunny day. We stayed the night outside the library and it was very quiet.

Latitude: 70.05

Today we decided to go leave our beautiful arctic ocean spot and go find another. The road to Mehamn was an in and out, but we didn’t take the direct way back. We took a detour to another fjord town. And what a great decision that turned out to be.

We drove around the town looking for a toilet, as neither of us wanted to poo in our van. There were no public toilets marked, and by chance I saw the city hall, and in it was a library. And this was the library that kept on giving. First of all, not only did it have a toilet, it also had a shower. We figured two weeks was long enough and made the most of it. 

Libraries, like in NZ, also have free internet, so I was able to get this weeks video uploaded. And it also happened to be pensioners day, so they offered us coffee and biscuits! Not because we are pensioners, but because the food had been laid out for them, and they had already left.

After that we drove back out the way we came, still in awe of the amazing scenery and all the snow. The place we had marked to drive to today, was 5 hours drive, but we’d already spent 5 hours mucking around! 

We stopped at a garage and got a bar of chocolate and a small bottle of coke, and it cost us $20 NZD!. I know things are expensive here, but this was above and beyond!

It was a sunny day and we really wanted to stay up and experience the midnight sun, rather than just glimpse at it through the curtains. So we kept on driving for 5 hours, or possibly longer. We saw Russia across the water from here. The scenery was nice, but nothing better than what we had already seen. Until we turned off. Then it got interesting. A super-narrow road only fit for one vehicle and flanked by the weird looking jagged rocks. 

This scenery went on for about an hour or two and was like nothing I’ve ever seen. It was about 8pm, and we were thankful nobody was coming the other way as there didn’t seem to be too many pull offs. Some places there were sheer drop-offs and it was quite scary, and we had been on the road for almost 12 hours by this stage (not all of it driving).

Eventually we reached the end, and there was a beautiful spot overlooking the arctic ocean, and only a couple of others were there. I had promised Mike a bacon and egg sandwich when we arrived, so I got on with cooking that. Then we mucked around, doing editing, playing chess, filling in time until midnight. Then we went out for a walk. 

It was bitterly cold, the wind blowing straight through us. I really wanted to see a puffin but all we saw was a fox and a white-tailed eagle. I would have liked to stay out longer but the wind was causing my eyes to water and they were stinging. But we vlogged the midnight sun, so job done. We’ll probably be knackered tomorrow.

Lattitude: 71.05

We had our amazing camp spot all to ourselves, overlooking the Arctic Ocean, and slept incredibly well. Just the sound of the wind. No traffic, no people, just peace.

This morning, we continued our journey even further north. Just 30 minutes up the road is the furthest north you can drive on mainland Norway. A lot of people think that title belongs to Nordkapp, but Nordkapp is actually on an island. And remember how just a few weeks ago we visited the southernmost lighthouse in Norway? Well, when we arrived today, there just happened to be a tall lighthouse standing on the headland. And it’s not only the northernmost lighthouse in mainland Norway, it’s the northernmost mainland lighthouse in the world.

When we got there, nobody else was around. Naturally, I tried the door to the lighthouse… and to my surprise, it opened. It was dark inside and felt like it probably should’ve been locked. We weren’t sure if we were allowed in, and it felt a little too spooky to explore without permission, so we turned back toward the van.

Just as we were heading for the van, an official-looking car pulled in. I spoke to the woman who got out, and she told us the lighthouse was still officially closed for the season, but we were welcome to go up if we wanted. We just had to let her know when we were finished. We mentioned how it was unlocked and she said she’d forgotten to lock it. Just as well we checked first, we would probably have been locked inside!

The inside was dim and atmospheric, with narrow stairs winding their way up the tower. The climb was steep, and there was something eerie about it. Each step echoed against the metal and stone while the narrow staircase twisted upward in tight circles. Dim light filtered through the small windows, giving a ghostly vibe. 

We kept on walking up the 139 steps to the top. The final steps leading to the lighthouse were very narrow and only a guardrail on one side. Tentatively we worked our way up into a tight space with an enormous light turning in the centre. The views out the windows were stunning, ocean in every direction, stretching out to the Arctic horizon. We were so lucky to have it to ourselves

When we got back down, the woman was waiting to lock up.

We drove back to the same camping spot from the night before and took the rest of the day off. The weather had turned cold, wet and windy, and the van was getting buffeted by the gusts. We stayed inside, played chess, and I got some editing done. Being a public holiday, everything was closed, so we made do with what we had. I’d planned on making a bean chilli, but we realised we didn’t have a can opener. So instead, we made tortilla pizzas with cheese, onion, and mushrooms. Simple, but tasty.

Lighthouse Facts:

39 meters tall. 

Built in 1905, destroyed during the war, rebuilt 1945-1948. 

Most northern mainland lighthouse in the world.

Latitude: 71.04

Wow, what a day. I’m not sure where to start, but we got off the tourist trail and have seen some of the most magnificent scenery yet. Norway is just stunning at every turn, and never stops surprising us.

We started the day driving along the edge of a fjord. How many places in the world can you do that? The road followed the shoreline, with mirror-like water on one side and snowy mountains rising on the other, with islands dotted in between. It was unbelievably scenic and put a smile on my face.

Later, we hiked along a canyon carved by centuries of rushing water. The river gushed with snowmelt, surging through the rocks in a choppy, chaotic way. Along the way, we met some Australians, the first antipodeans of our trip! They were super nice, and funnily enough, they’d done Alaska last year too. It felt like we were on a similar wavelength, chasing the edges of the map.

Most tourists head to Nordkapp, the northernmost point in mainland Europe accessible by road. But it’s a bit of a tourist trap: full of tour buses, souvenir shops, and an entry fee just to get to the viewpoint. It didn’t appeal to us.

So I did my usual “zoomie” thing on the map and found a little town called Mehamn, almost as far north, perched on the edge of the Arctic Ocean, and totally unknown to most people. Even the locals we’ve met haven’t heard of it.

The drive to Mehamn was one of the most beautiful I’ve ever done. It began winding alongside a fjord with smooth water reflecting small boats and rocks. Then the road climbed higher into the mountains, and the landscape changed again. We were transported to another world. Rocky terrain, smeared with snow that still covered the ground in early summer. Frozen lakes dotted the landscape, thawing into pale blue pools. At times, the snow beside the road was stacked higher than I am. It felt like we had driven onto another planet. Remote, silent, and vast.

I wondered why this route isn’t on the tourist map. Maybe they’re keeping it a secret. Maybe it’s better that way.

After around two hours of driving through this surreal landscape, we reached Mehamn, a quiet fishing village nestled beside the Barents Sea, in the far reaches of the Arctic. We found a beautiful spot to camp just north of the village, with sweeping views of the sea. It’s peaceful, remote, and stunning. I can’t believe we’ve made it this far. Over 71 degrees north! Last year at the Arctic ocean in Canada we were at 69 degrees, although it’s been a much easier drive to get here this year.

Tomorrow, we’re heading even further north to a lighthouse at the very edge of the world. This feels like the true north, not the tourist north.

Today, we crossed into Finland! It was just a short 30-minute drive from our campsite to the border, and not far after that, we’d marked out a hike in Lapland. It was meant to be an easy loop around a lake, something gentle and scenic. But on the drive there, I spotted a trail leading up a mountain. I looked at the slope and saw people up there and thought, no way! Then I glanced at the frozen lake beside us and thought, actually… the view from up there would be amazing.

So next minute, we’re making wraps for lunch, filling up our water bottles, and hiking up a mountain! Okay, the plan was never really to go all the way to the top. Just high enough to get the views.

 The track wound through mountain birch trees, with patches of snow scattered around. There was even snow on parts of the track that we had to crunch our way through.

Halfway up, we stumbled across a hexagonal shelter hut with a firepit in the center, cooking tools, an axe for chopping wood, and a shovel for the snow. It was incredibly cosy, the kind of place you’d want to hunker down in during a storm.

We kept climbing and, after about 30 minutes, broke above the tree line. The view was spectacular with the frozen lake below and mountains stretching into the distance. We decided that was far enough. The temperature was dropping, and we weren’t equipped for any sudden changes in weather.

After the hike, the landscape changed. As we drove further into Finland, the terrain flattened out and the lakes multiplied. I don’t want to say it was boring… but it was boring. What stood out, though, was the amount of rubbish. Many of the scenic rest stops were sprawled with litter, a stark contrast to pristine Norway.

We also encountered many reindeer behaving badly. They hang out on the side of the road, and decide to wander in front of you without warning. They are neat to see though, with their fancy little antlers. We also kept spotting animals that looked like antler-less reindeer. Elk, maybe? Very cute, whatever they were.

We followed the Swedish border for much of the day. Technically, we could’ve crossed over just to say we went to Sweden, but didn’t see the point. It’s just an invisible line.

Eager to reach the Arctic Ocean, we pushed on and re-entered Norway. There, we found a quiet lakeside camp all to ourselves. It was perfect: calm water, no wind, no bugs, just peace. We set up the chairs and soaked it in, thinking how lucky we are to be here.

For dinner we had garlic bread and soup, and I was still patting myself on the back for finding such a great spot when the peace was shattered by a roar that sounded like a dirtbike on steroids. I looked out the window and saw a jet ski tearing across the lake at breakneck speed. I’d never seen one move so fast! But then it drove up on the land. An amphibious jet ski? I’d never heard of such a thing.

Curious, we stepped outside and were immediately hit by the smell of high-octane fuel. A few vans and a gazebo were set up nearby. We wandered over, marvelling as this amphibious creature darted across the lake, breaking the sound barrier. 

As we got closer we saw that it was a race team and they were out practicing on the lake. The creature we’d been seeing wasn’t a jet-ski at all. It was actually a stock-standard snow-mobile! Apparently, it can skim across the surface of the water at high speed, but if it stops, it sinks. We stood there, amazed, watching it fly across the lake. It was wild, loud, and completely unexpected.

They’d only just arrived around 7 p.m., so we figured they’d be going for a while. Although it was very cool, it was a bit loud for us, so we packed up and moved on, driving another 40 minutes to a quieter lakeside spot. This one had picnic tables, a toilet, and a few campervans, but the atmosphere was much more peaceful.

An exciting end to an already adventurous day.

This morning we took our time, soaking in the beauty of the mountains around us before setting off for a walk around 10:30am. The trail climbed steadily uphill for about an hour, winding mostly through pine forest. It was incredibly calm. Just us and the sounds of nature, with no one else in sight.

At the top, we came across a post box! It was just a hollow in a tree with a guestbook tucked inside. It felt like a geocache, except you didn’t have to hunt for it. I loved the idea. We added our names and saw we were the only ones from New Zealand. Most others had come from Finland, Germany, and the Netherlands.

On the way down, the path followed a rushing river, going crazy with snowmelt. Later we passed a gushing waterfall, also going crazy. This really is the perfect time of year to witness the sheer force of the water.

We decided to spend another night at the same camp spot. It’s just too beautiful to leave, especially with the sunny day and finally warm enough to sit outside. We even did laundry using river water and had a shower, which basically involved getting slightly damp and calling it hygiene.

The rest of the day we simply relaxed, enjoying doing absolutely nothing.

After a peaceful night camping just outside the tunnel, we woke up and enjoyed the breathtaking mountain and lake views right outside our window. I even managed to finish editing next week’s video.

The morning’s adventure started with driving through the first tunnel. No sweat, since I could see daylight at the other end. But then came the real test: a narrow, twisting 1-kilometer tunnel that felt really claustrophobic. I wasn’t sure how we’d handle meeting another car inside and the thought sent a little shiver down my spine!

Once on the other side, we cruised down to Husøy, a tiny fishing village perched on an island. It wasn’t bustling, but the drive there was stunning. Rugged coastline, jagged mountains, and a peaceful vibe. Driving back through the tunnels was easier this time, now I knew it wasn’t going to trick me into being longer than I expected.

We then decided we’d seen all we wanted to on Senja island, so it was time to start heading towards the Arctic ocean. But to avoid the massive tunnels on the way north, we needed to head south first through Finland and a bit of Sweden.

The start of this leg was a hectic blur of busy highways, campervans and trucks, all behaving badly. But as soon as we veered off the main road, everything slowed down. We cruised through a tranquil valley framed by towering mountains, and a beautiful fjord. It was gorgeous.

We’d planned to keep driving for hours, but by 4 p.m. we found the perfect rest stop, tucked away from the busy road, surrounded by towering pines and snow-dotted mountains. We took a short, steep hike up the hill, wheezing in crisp pine air and glimpses of snowy peaks between the trees. A rushing river and distant waterfall added to the soundtrack of nature, washing away the day’s travel fatigue.

Tomorrow? Finland awaits, just for a little while, before we continue chasing the Arctic ocean.

We slept soundly at the ferry port, waking up refreshed and buzzing with anticipation for the crossing ahead. Overnight, a fresh queue had sprouted beside us, and by the time boarding began, there were three lines of eager travellers.

The ferry ride to Senja took about an hour and 40 minutes, and it was a scenic journey. As the ship rolled with the ocean swell, the rugged, snow-capped peaks of Senja came into view.

We arrived, and were blown away by how beautiful and calm this place is. And dare I say it… it’s much nicer than Lofoten! We drove through many tunnels today, and they didn’t bother me as much as I expected. The longest one was 2.2 kms, and this was the worst. It was windy and narrow, and no ventilation so it was also smelly.

We tried to track down some hikes using the AllTrails app, but it sent us on a wild goose chase to places with no clear paths. So we stopped at a secluded beach and had an afternoon nap instead.

Later, we drove on until we stumbled on a gorgeous spot overlooking a frozen lake, one of the most serene and beautiful spots I’ve ever seen. Unfortunately, we weren’t allowed to camp there.

Tonight, we’re camping just outside a tunnel, with a lake and mountains sprawled out before us. We’ll explore more tomorrow, before continuing our journey north.

As beautiful as the Lofoten islands are, we decided they are too busy for us. So we’re getting off! Today we drove to the ferry at Fiskebol (which I think translates to fish bowl) and caught the ferry to another lot of islands. We drove along these for most of the day, admiring the different scenery. It was less dramatic and more jagged hills, and sleepy little farms. But it was nice for a change.

The weather was cold and wet for most of the day, so we just kept on driving through the misty landscape. Late in the afternoon, we found a quiet, free camping spot next to a white sandy beach, and settled in for the night.

We want to go to Senja island, which is supposed to be as nice as the Lofoten islands, just less touristy. This involved catching another ferry. There’s just one catch. When I looked at the times for it, I noticed it only goes twice a day. Once in the morning and once in the evening. So I decided we’d be better off driving the extra 30 minutes to the ferry terminal and camping there for the night.

So we packed up and moved on. When we arrived, we weren’t alone. A neat line of campervans had already beaten us to it, everyone else having the same idea. So here we are, parked up in the queue ready for the morning ferry. It doesn’t get much easier than that!