Vigeland to Lake Byglandsfjorden – 175 kms
Lattitude: 58
We had a surprisingly great night’s sleep at a scenic carpark right off the main road. Today, we’re heading to the southernmost tip of mainland Norway.
It was another glorious, sunny day as we wound our way along narrow roads skirting fjords and charming boathouses. I don’t know why, but everything here feels ultra-saturated. It’s like seeing the world through an iPhone with the filters cranked up. The colours are incredibly vivid, almost surreal. Maybe it’s to do with how far north we are, but it’s probably just my imagination.
We reached the southern tip of mainland Norway and set off on a steep hike up to the lighthouse. As we climbed, the salty air grew stronger, and my lungs grew tighter. I must do more exercise! At the top, the lighthouse stood tall against the brilliant blue sky, offering endless views over the North Sea. The original lighthouse was powered by a coal fire, and we had the chance to explore the nearby caves where the coal was stored. They were dark, cool, and moody, still with a hint of coal smell. It was a fascinating glimpse into the past and added a unique layer to our visit.
Afterwards, we spent some time plotting our next move, keen to head north, but eager to avoid the major cities. Finding a route through Norway without driving through long tunnels is trickier than you’d think. But the upside? We get to drive through some wonderfully wiggly backroads with stunning scenery at every turn.
We stopped at a small museum, where a lovely local woman gave us some brilliant tips for road-tripping north. I’d been torn about skipping the major tourist hotspots like the Lofoten Islands. Part of me didn’t want to miss out, even though crowded places aren’t really my thing. Thankfully, she confirmed what I’d suspected: they’re beautiful, but seriously overrun, and there are plenty of less touristy spots that are just as stunning, if not more so. Most of them were already on my radar, but it was reassuring to have that insider validation.
We continued our journey north, searching for a camping spot for the night. We found a little spot which seemed perfect. It was a bit of a tight and bumpy squeeze, but Mike wrangled Bertie in, balancing us nicely on a rock overlooking a lake. But when we stepped out of the van we were swarmed upon by ants. And they weren’t little ants either, these were big brown man eating things! We needed to leave! Now! Lake view or not, we weren’t about to become part of the ant smorgasbord.
The next trick was to reverse out of the tight spot. I tried to help but as per standard, Mike ignored all my arm waving, yelling, etc. and then he almost got stuck in a groove, wheels spinning, kicking up grit and ants. A moment of fear crossed my mind of getting stuck here and being eaten alive. But, the professional driver he is, with the help of our adventure van, Bertie, they both made it out. It might not have worked out so well if it was wet.
A short way up the road we found a better spot to camp for the night, also overlooking a lake and under some pine trees. And no ants! We sat on the rocks at the edge of the lake, enjoying the quiet, the breeze, and the simple feeling of having nowhere else to be. So far, it’s just us here, no other vans, a stunning view and a few flying bugs which we weren’t sure were bitey or not. It feels like our own private slice of Norway.
The days are getting longer with the sun now setting at 10pm. I’m going to start putting the lattitude at the top of the blog. We are currently at 58 degrees. The arctic is at 66 and we hope to go as far north as 71 degrees. Hamilton sits at 38 degrees.