{"id":5234,"date":"2026-05-25T07:37:00","date_gmt":"2026-05-25T07:37:00","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.wheresjo.com\/?p=5234"},"modified":"2026-05-26T07:37:28","modified_gmt":"2026-05-26T07:37:28","slug":"day-20-the-steamed-pudding","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.wheresjo.com\/?p=5234","title":{"rendered":"Day 20: The Steamed Pudding"},"content":{"rendered":"\n<p class=\"p1\">Wow, what a day.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"p1\">This morning, we left our campground at 10:30am and mucked around trying to avoid the main road, while Google Maps repeatedly tried to send us down a narrow bike track.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"p1\">After the third suspicious-looking turn-off and a 1000-point turn, we gave up and did the sensible thing for once and drove the 5km on the main road instead.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"p1\">Then we were able to turn off and follow the squiggly roads we like. But first, a supermarket stop to get some supplies. And then came the usual ritual of trying to find the things we want in a new country, while also trying to remember what language I\u2019m speaking.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"p1\">The drive through the Pyrenees today was unbelievable. Windy mountain roads, thick forests, little villages clinging to the hillsides, and huge views across the mountains. And every time we thought the scenery had peaked, it just got better.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"p1\">Eventually the roads got steeper and narrower, winding through dense beech forests where the sunlight barely made it through the trees. Then suddenly we popped out at the top of the mountain and the views were insane. Proper 360-degree views across the Pyrenees.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"p1\">And sitting right on top of it all was a 1,000-year-old monastery. There was a huge car park, but it was empty. We were all alone there.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"p1\">We wandered into the monastery. Inside the massive stone walls, the temperature dropped instantly. Like walking into a fridge. After being outside in the heat all morning, it was refreshing.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"p1\">The church was dark and quiet, with barely any light. You could hear every little footstep echo around the room. It was kind of creepy. If someone had appeared slowly from a doorway wearing a robe, I probably would have gasped.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"p1\">We had lunch overlooking the mountains afterwards, mesmerised by the view. Then we took a short walk on a rocky outcrop. Way down below was an unusually shaped giant rock. Mike said it looked like a steamed pudding sliced in half.&nbsp;<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"p1\">Then I noticed a tiny winding road down near it. I asked Mike if we\u2019d be driving on it.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"p1\">\u201cNo,\u201d he said. \u201cThat\u2019s just a footpath. The GR282 hiking trail comes through here.\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"p1\">Anyway.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"p1\">When it was time to leave, we turned onto a concrete road which looked suspiciously like a footpath. But both Google Maps and the sat nav insisted this was the way down, so off we went.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"p1\">It was one of those roads where you try not to look too closely at the edge because there\u2019s nothing between you and the valley below. Sheer drop-offs, tiny corners, no barriers. Beautiful though.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"p1\">Then we spotted the unusual steamed pudding rock we\u2019d been admiring from the monastery at the top.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"p1\">And realised we were driving down the \u201cfootpath\u201d.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"p1\">Turns out it actually is a road. Technically.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"p1\">About halfway down, we came around a corner and found a giant eagle standing in the middle of the road.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"p1\">Even as a baby, this thing was HUGE.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"p1\">The poor thing looked exhausted and was struggling to fly, stomping around on his massive feet trying to work out what to do. We sat there for a while to give him space and watched him attempt a few take-offs, but he just couldn\u2019t quite manage it.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"p1\">Meanwhile his parents circled overhead, keeping a very close eye on us. I wasn\u2019t getting out of the van.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"p1\">Eventually we drove slowly past and left him alone, but it was such an amazing thing to see.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"p1\">And somehow the day still got better.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"p1\">I\u2019ve been pretty nervous about accommodation in Spain because of some of the comments on the app I use for park-ups. <\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"p1\">In France, the complaints are things like \u201cno toilets\u201d or \u201cno water\u201d. Meanwhile in Spain people are writing things like \u201cthey tried to steal our bikes\u201d, \u201csomeone shook our van in the night\u201d, or \u201cthey threw rocks at us\u201d. And these aren\u2019t isolated comments either. It seems to be a recurring theme all over.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"p1\">So I\u2019d already resigned myself to paying for campgrounds most nights.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"p1\">But at the bottom of the mountain we found a special campervan area in this little town. And it\u2019s free until June.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"p1\">Driving through the town was slightly concerning because there was graffiti absolutely everywhere, but the actual park-up was just outside town and completely different. Surrounded by rocky mountains, farmland, and a few other campervans already parked up, which always makes things feel a bit safer.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"p1\">So we stopped there for the afternoon and melted into the heat.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"p1\">It\u2019s still ridiculously hot, although slightly better up in the mountains. I\u2019m actually enjoying it as long as I don\u2019t have to move too much.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"p1\">Later we walked 15 minutes into town for supplies and treated ourselves to a Magnum for the walk home.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"p1\">And beer, obviously.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"p1\">We\u2019ve embraced the Spanish way of eating late without even trying. I mean, it\u2019s just too hot to eat anyway, so we don\u2019t even start thinking about dinner until about 7:30pm.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"p1\">Tonight we settled for chicken and salad wraps because it was too hot to cook. And we had to wait until about 10pm before it seemed cool enough to go inside the van.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"p1\">I do love these long days though.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Wow, what a day. This morning, we left our campground at 10:30am and mucked around trying to avoid the main road, while Google Maps repeatedly tried to send us down a narrow bike track. After the third suspicious-looking turn-off and &hellip; <a href=\"https:\/\/www.wheresjo.com\/?p=5234\">Continue reading <span class=\"meta-nav\">&rarr;<\/span><\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"jetpack_post_was_ever_published":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_access":"","_jetpack_dont_email_post_to_subs":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_tier_id":0,"footnotes":""},"categories":[53],"tags":[],"jetpack_sharing_enabled":true,"jetpack_featured_media_url":"","jetpack_shortlink":"https:\/\/wp.me\/p7qMoz-1mq","jetpack_likes_enabled":true,"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.wheresjo.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/5234"}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.wheresjo.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.wheresjo.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.wheresjo.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.wheresjo.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=5234"}],"version-history":[{"count":1,"href":"https:\/\/www.wheresjo.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/5234\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":5235,"href":"https:\/\/www.wheresjo.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/5234\/revisions\/5235"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.wheresjo.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=5234"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.wheresjo.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcategories&post=5234"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.wheresjo.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Ftags&post=5234"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}